Penguins Bike

July 7, 2026 - biked 50 km (31 mi), train'd 224 km (139 mi) - biked 870 km (541 mi) total

To keep on schedule, today was another half-train-skip day. We had a delightful breakfast with Clara, then biked up a big hill to the train station with a view in Marseille, and hopped on a train to Nice. Our goal for the rest of the day will be to bike out of France to Italy.

This next section, with 1700 ft elevation gain you’d hope the views are worth it. At the midway point we felt betrayed by the route. How can this be sanctioned as the EuroVelo for cyclists like us? I barely passed someone who walked up the hill. The highest grade was 18%.

Apparently you can’t leave by bike France without literally biking the Tour de France. We didn't realize it until the top but the EuroVelo was actually following part of the 2020 Tour de France mountain stage 2!

David always waits for me to catch up and one such point, I huffed, “I’m about ready to chuck all my bags down the hill.” “But not the one with the cookies!” he quickly double checked.

We ate everything remaining, including cheese purchased seven days ago that we hadn’t refrigerated. We feasted just out of Nice, surrounded by mansions with one of the best views in the world and a surprise horse!

At the very top, not only were we rewarded with yacht-scattered ocean views but we got to see deeper into the Alps. Eek!

After several more stops, we finally made our descent. This is the time where I wait for David. David was feeling a little conflicted about taking this really grueling route instead of taking an easier, but more traffic, sea route through Monaco. Monaco seems like such an interesting place, but then we kept seeing more mega-yachts, more helicopters landing on mega-yachts, and noticed there were no cycle paths through the city and he thinks the grueling hills were the better decision.

On a leveling out after a 25mph descent, I just happened to stop in front of probably the fanciest hotels with the richest views. One of the door keepers did the universal sign for drink and I nodded quickly. He gave me water in its rarest form—cold!

Even though we were soon done with the descent, we still had 100m of elevation and some km and boarder crossing to cover before reaching our campsite.

We are in Italy!

I get clumsy when I’m depleted and I refused to blow up my mattress pad before eating dinner. Thankfully, David had a battery powered pump that saved that little bit of energy.

We showered, because we try to at least blend in with general society when off-bike, before stuffing our faces, this time with our first brush with Italian food.

July 6, 2026 - biked 0 km (0 mi), ferry'd 12 km (7.3 mi) - biked 820 km (510 mi) total

Today was a rest day but we still managed to hike/walk 9+ miles.

My housemates’ friend, Clara, was able to host us last minute as her roommate just left on holiday. We stayed in a lovely flat with steep stairs. Our bikes fit snuggled next to the bed so its owners can rest without worry. While camping, the bikes can be free range but in the big cities we like them tucked in close.

Mishap

When traveling, even with all the novel sights, sounds and smells, one always finds the urge to search earnestly for the toilette.

And when even one person needs to go, all other plans are put on hold.

The relief of finding the toilet was quickly delayed when I had to wait for three other people to use it. And I had to wait for the 45 second self-clean cycle between each use.

Eventually when it was my turn, I was tempted to just use it after the guy before me, but I let it do its thing and self-clean, watching the countdown timer like it was New Year’s Eve.

I had just finished my business when an automated French voice announced something indecipherable to me. Lights dimmed. Things clicked beneath the thing walls and I was trapped.

The only thing I could do was accept my fate of witnessing and experiencing this bathroom’s self-clean cycle.

I stared at the toilet lifting the seat slightly to flush down the contents. I screamed and jumped up onto a slight platform as soapy water flooded the floors. All the while, loud air blasted like 25 hair dryers turned on all at once.

In the midst of all that chaos, I wish I had thought to pull up my clothes because on cue the door opened wide ready to receive its next customer.

I discreetly, yet frantically, let them know that someone else was in the stall and pushed the only button I could, but the little bugger wouldn’t close. I had to finish up my stuff with the door wide open, but thankfully the next ‘victims’ gave me space.

Don’t recommend trying the city toilets in France. Some free advice from Clara, with an high emotional high cost from me-find a public library and use their facilities instead.

Island

After that whole episode, I was ready to move on with our day. I had a craving to go on a boat and swim since that is all we see people doing day after day on the Mediterranean coast.

Clara happened to suggested a few things to do in Marseille and one of them was to visit the Îles du Frioul.

So we went. Cost only 17€ round trip for a 20 minute boat ride that offers killer views.

We ate food right away since we are always hungry. Then we hiked, privately skinny-dipped, hiked some more and boated back.

For dinner, we ate three courses at a Lebanese restaurant that just happened to be playing Portugal v Spain. Which was better than missing sleep to see USA get crushed by Belgium.

And that concludes our one quick day in Marseille.