Penguins Bike

Day 42 - Go find an Albanian girlfriend - Donji Murići, Montenegro to Shkodër, Albania

Sarah

August 1, 2026 biked 35 miles with 2750 feet elevation

For the hills, David is faster ascending and I’m faster down them. He says I go zoomies. Usually he passes me soon after the next uphill starts but after my tuna, cheese and tomato lunch I was zooming up the hills too!

After some time has passed, I arrived in a town when I decided I probably should wait for David since he always waits for me when he’s ahead.

Free Beer

In this very small, almost abandoned town, a group of Albanian men were sitting at a bar drinking and smoking at 1pm. They waved me over. I said I’m waiting for my boyfriend but I could use some cold water. I waited and chatted and waited some more. They lived in New York as is the trend with many other Albanians. One guy lived there for 20 years and said in an NY accent-“New York…forgetaboutit.” Apparently not the biggest fan. But they all have NYC license plates!

Eventually they convinced me to get a beer. I was slowly sipping it when I finally saw David and waved at him to stop. But one old man waved him to keep biking and find an Albanian girlfriend.

After some laughter, David got some water and we tried to share my remaining beer, but they insisted on buying us both beers. They said it is a rule in Albania that the first drink is on them. David was so far behind because he thought he accidentally passed me. I must be getting stronger!

Continuing on…

I might be stronger, but three days of hard climbs has me jock-brain. I’m so spacey. I try to charge my phone with the wrong cord and I forgot to restart my GPS; it automatically turns off when I pause for a break.

I need more sleep and calories.

Albanian Border

The line to the border crossing was long but we were able to skip right to the front. Which is nice but, overall travel is still faster in a car.

When we got closer to our accommodation for the next few nights, I realized I accidentally booked the wrong date. I booked it for tomorrow night, not tonight.

I let our host know when we arrived. I asked her if it’s possible to stay here tonight in addition to the next two days. She said it was no problem and that the room is ready for me. I asked if she wanted to see any of my documents. Every campsite and hotel requires us to show our passports so they can our information. But she said no.

We are in another heat wave so I immediately jumped into the shower. The faster I get out of my bike clothes the faster we can meet up with David’s friend, Allie and eat. Right when I got out, we heard a knock and she told David that there was a misunderstanding and the people who booked the place were waiting. We had to leave.

Dripping wet, I scrambled to pack everything back and tried to wipe up the wet floor. It was awkward, but the people waiting were cool. Turns out they are a French couple hitchhiking from Japan back to France!

We were referred to a somewhat unfinished, but cheap hotel down the street and it all worked out.

There was a cow wandering on the beach that day.
Can’t tell, but we both did an early morning swim.
12%..and even 7% is too steep to bike, especially first thing in the morning.
But 5% or less is ok.
Looks like people in Donji Murići get their water from a well above town.
Shkodër lake contains multitudes of beauty.
More trash in paradise.
Top of the climb has a cafe! Midday espresso. Does this mean I’m closer to becoming European?
Our steel horses need a rest too.
Another well.
Our lunch—formerly sliced Gouda cheese that fused into a cube, hot tomato, bread and tuna.
Hello tobacco.
This was just on the side of the road. Clearly only useable for flies.
See the statue head to the left? The building is a school for only 30 students. I used to have more, but everyone is in New York.
Soviet throwback?
Our two new Albanian friends who bought us beer!
Maybe clear the trash then put up the sign?
Can you tell how steep it is?
Almost at the top of the ridge. The route taps the border here, but there's no crossing, so we slice down this then we head on the main road into Albania.
David has a great smile in this picture. I’m too hungry to smile.
Watch tower on the ridge that sits right next to the border.
Translation: Warning border line. Nearest crossing 16 km away.
All the cars we passed on our way to cross into Albania.
Border control Montenegro side.
Boarder control Albania side-they love purple.
Ghost bike? We haven't seen any other of these so I don't know if it's a thing here.
Lots of mosques. Cool style.
Tons of these bunkers everywhere.
We took the old bridge into Shkodër. It was very rickety.
They have cycle tracks here!
Surprise hotel for the night—30 Euros.
Super bike friendly city. It’s amazing all these older people bicycle!
Exotic Fanta. Have you tried it? Have you tried red wine margaritas? Maybe you need to come to Albania.
Our friend Allie!
Guess what’s in it? A delicate blend of peach, orange and passion fruit.