Cheese</th>	Dough</th>	Sauce</th>	Toppings</th>	Overall</strong></th></tr></thead>
3.0</td>	2.0</td>	2.5</td>	4.5</td>	3.0</strong></td></tr> </tbody></table> Cheese</h2> I have loved all cheese in Europe. It has an extra "fatty depth" and extra flavor that cheese in the US lacks. Like go out and buy a stick of Darigold and Kerrygold and lick each and tell me how you feel. So I was a little bummed when the cheese on this pizza tasted like the bog standard mozzarella you get on cheap American pizza but with just a hint of that extra fat. Also unclear if there was any parmesan?</p> 3.0 / 5.0 Just above average.</p> Dough</h2> Bread here has also been like the cheese, it has a slightly richer flavor. I got a bit of that from the crust going on here. Like it had hints of whole wheat but wasn't whole wheat; a sort of "whole wheat La Croix" of dough. That was overshadowed by a chewy interior, yet almost off-the-scales protractor test: zero flop.</p> 2.0 / 5.0 I didn't like it but I wasn't repulsed.</p> Sauce</h2> Merely there. Light, salty, maybe with truffle? It seemed to lack olive oil, which might have elevated this.</p> 2.5 / 5.0 Unremarkable but not detracting.</p> Toppings</h2> Stars of the show here. The merguez was incredible. Well into involuntary yum territory. Shone but did not dominate. I want to find this on pizza again.</p> A Linda Rosa without ham should still have had mushrooms on it, but did not. 🤷‍♂️ I will rate this as a cheese.</p> 4.5 / 5.0 Yum.</p> Overall</h2> I really wanted to like this pizza more than I did. It looked good, smelled good, we were hungry as all hell. But it was only ok. Maybe that tells you something when you force ham on people.</p> 3.0 / 5.0</p> The "Linda Rosa" but actually just cheese?</figcaption></figure> The Carmarguez.</figcaption></figure> Day 19 - I'm more of a cave wine kind of gal - Trieste, Italy to Ljubljana, Slovenia 2026-07-10T15:27:03.554303672-07:00 July 9, 2026 - biked 60 km (37 mi), train'd 62 km (39 mi) - biked 932 km (579 mi) total</em></p> There is a cliff between Italy and Slovenia. This means there aren't many trains there Italy. The original plan when we planned on skipping Italy was to take the train all the way into Ljubljana, but computers told us that in order to walk on our bikes, it would have required a really early and long day ending in a night train from Austria. I love a train but that is too much train. While researching this, I learned there is a bike trail that follows an old rail grade from Trieste, up that cliff, into Slovenia! So what if we biked that, then took a local train in Slovenia to make it a quick day and be able to meet our parents on time?</p> That was the plan.</p> First fun thing of the day, we finally met the owner of the bike shop in Trieste where we stored our bikes in for the night, Dario. He was so incredibly excited to meet us and hear about our trip and seemed very sad to be trapped renting bikes to other people rather than riding them himself. He said his last big trip was from Rome to St. Petersburg during Covid. It took three months. Now who is inspiring whom? He was so pumped to learn that our penguin's name was Gabriel. It's meeting people like this that reminds me that, while travel is fun, it's the people that buckle down and make things happen who are the ones that make the destinations worthwhile.</p> And we were off! The start of the day in Trieste city was miserable and full of traffic and then straight uphill, but eventually we got to the bike path and it was amazing. Uphill, yes, but very gradual by bike standards. (And apparently not by train standards, which is why it isn't used for that any more.) There were good views, soaring bridges, old tunnels, baby cows, and signs for "wine cave".</p> We kept seeing signs for "wine cave". And we agreed, if the "wine cave" was right off the trail, we'd stop. As the trail skirted the Slovenian border, we saw all these wooden arrows that said "wine cave" pointing to a rocky path. We leaned up our bikes and head down, across the border taking our first steps into Slovenia. 50 m down, we eventually come upon a picnic table, and as we looked back at the hill there's a hobbit door with a big sign that says "self service free entrance". I open the hobbit door and it is pitch black, so I run back up to get my headlamp. We go inside and there is a big table in a 2 m high cave made of an old sewing machine table with benches on each side. On the table are these two locked aluminum cooking pots that say "wine free", another pot with cups in plastic bags to keep them dry, and a third box with "goat cheese 15€". We drink the cave wine. We have no idea if it's home made or Slovenian or what but it is red and delicious. And then we notice we are surrounded by silent, motionless huge spiders.</p> I cannot think of a better first few steps into Slovenia.</p> After two paper cups of cave wine, we sign the logbook outside, chat with some Italians who just hiked in, and get to riding again.</p> The rest of the trail is chill. We make it to Divača where we plan to take the train. It's a spooky station and eventually I find a ticket machine and we buy two tickets. And then the train is there! It says Ljubljana! We leap on to get moving. And it slowly twists and turns across the hillsides. Eventually the conductor looks at our tickets and tells us the train doesn't go all the way into Ljubljana. There's something wrong today, so there's a bus that will take everyone the second half of the way. But no bikes on the bus, so we have to wait for an hour at the next station for a train that will go all the way. This sucks as we watch everyone get on a coach bus and leave us. At this point we're another 30 km from Ljubljana.</p> So instead of waiting an hour for the train and another hour on the train, we just bike it. We lost some time initially because Sarah took some convincing. Initially, it's not too fun, as the first half is on the side of a main road with no shoulder, but it is all downhill and we go so fast. It even starts raining on us, big fat drops, the first rain the whole trip. We were thinking about sending our rain gear home, but will this change our mind? Nah, it's warm rain. My phone hates the rain though and refuses to work in any way until it dries out.</p> Once we get near Ljubljana, things get way nicer. There's cycle paths 15 km out of the city, and we see lots of folks on bikes. Even in town is really chill. Feels like a good city.</p> We navigate right into our parents open arms, who wait for us outside our Airbnb for the next week.</p> </iframe> </iframe> An Americano seems to be such an affront to the Italians they make you dilute the espresso yourself.</figcaption></figure> Just a little sweet treat for breakfast.</figcaption></figure> Trieste hostel stay </figcaption></figure> Bike shop owner, Dario, lubes us up.</figcaption></figure> He took out picture again after he saw Gabs peeking out of the bag. </figcaption></figure> Italian water fountain uses a foot pedal and provides privacy.</figcaption></figure> Trieste was traffic. </figcaption></figure> Beginning of the bike path.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Bowed out tunnel like we are entering the top half of a keyhole. What are we unlocking? So many things! </figcaption></figure> </figure> Gab’s buddy? </figcaption></figure> Old train station.</figcaption></figure> First "wine cave" sign.</figcaption></figure> Everywhere it looks like the rocks are shiny is actually spiderwebs.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Špile means spires. Confused, but we still enter. </figcaption></figure> Cave wine. </figcaption></figure> Cave wine.</figcaption></figure> Gangster spiders</figcaption></figure> It was empty except for a stale piece of bread. </figcaption></figure> Oh yeah they also had sparking water.</figcaption></figure> </figure> The butterflies thought we were flowers. </figcaption></figure> Means field wedding? </figcaption></figure> There was also a little free library with children's books. I assume to distract the children while the parents got drunk on cave wine.</figcaption></figure> I believe this is the border. Italy told us we were leaving, but nothing welcomed into Slovenia.</figcaption></figure> We were still excited to be in Slovenia.</figcaption></figure> And the immediately Slovenia was like "trucks will run you off this road". </figcaption></figure> So we had to take this super steep road instead.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Roadside shrines. Are we in Japan?</figcaption></figure> Where we were to take the train from.</figcaption></figure> Every train has bike hooks. Sometimes we are bad at seeing them for 15 min though.</figcaption></figure> Then we got dumped into this other station in Logatec with this cool clock, while everyone else got to take a bus.</figcaption></figure> Storm clouds</figcaption></figure> Ljubljana suburbs after a rain.</figcaption></figure> We made it!</figcaption></figure> Lots of cycle paths.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Our parents received us.</figcaption></figure> Day 18 - Buff Arms - Ventimiglia, Italy to Trieste, Italy 2026-07-09T14:22:05.486495304-07:00 July 8, 2026 - biked 2 km (1.2 mi), train'd 692 km (430 mi) - biked 872 km (542 mi) total</em></p> I swear this is a bike trip, but we're taking trains again. We are meeting our parents in Ljubljana July 9 and there's not enough time. We had decided at the beginning of the trip to skip biking Italy. This is very sad, but it means another trip we want to bike the whole length. So today was an epic amount of regional trains, so we could roll our bike on. It was kind of stressful because we bought these tickets when we were in Spain and I didn't notice that they had crazy tight transfers until we started. We (and actually quite a few other people) ended up running between the trains and hauling out loaded bikes up and down stairs as quick as we could. Good thing all our bike riding on gravel had strengthened our arms.</p> </iframe> </iframe> The hills around Ventimiglia were still stunning in the morning.</figcaption></figure> Sarah got a coffee with traditional coffee plating.</figcaption></figure> I got orange juice with traditional coffee plating.</figcaption></figure> For breakfast, the worst food we've had on the trip. Stale, burnt pastries.</figcaption></figure> Have you ever ridden a bike named Donna and wondered, what if this Donna was Mondo?</figcaption></figure> Market in Ventimiglia. </figcaption></figure> Sarah cannot hide her happiness after she purchases cherries.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Prepare yourself for 10 hours of trains.</figcaption></figure> Some guy in Montpellier taught us this elevator bike trip.</figcaption></figure> Someone was in our seat, and it set off a chain of events where that was due to four other people being in the wrong seats.</figcaption></figure> This is what we look like when we eat peaches. Incredible peaches. </figcaption></figure> This is what we look like when we eat peaches. Incredible peaches. </figcaption></figure> One lemon, one pistachio. All chode. </figcaption></figure> Leg 1 of 4 complete. Preparing for a 5 minute transfer in Milan.</figcaption></figure> Milano, we barely knew you. </figcaption></figure> I wish we had more than 30 seconds in Milan because this atrium looked incredible.</figcaption></figure> Train 2 of 4.</figcaption></figure> Wonder what this day was like.</figcaption></figure> No bike racks on Trenord, just buckles.</figcaption></figure> The Messarunner on Train 3 of 4 after an even tighter 2 minute transfer. Regionale trains have slide in racks. We have learned to run up stairs with our bikes. No photos for obvious reasons.</figcaption></figure> Bikes on train 4 of 4. </figcaption></figure> </figure> Gabbs takes a rest.</figcaption></figure> Sunset entering Trieste.</figcaption></figure> </figure> We say goodbye to our final train 11 hours later.</figcaption></figure> More super-yacht stores. What if i have a regular yacht?</figcaption></figure> Biking to the hostel in Trieste was stressful. It felt like rush hour and no cycle tracks.</figcaption></figure> The hostel does not allow bikes inside so I hauled all the bags up in one go while Sarah waited with the bikes.</figcaption></figure> 360 view. 8 bags.</figcaption></figure> The hostel recommended we store our bikes at this bike rental shop a few blocks away.</figcaption></figure> We got the code to get in after hours and then almost knocked over 30 bikes like dominoes.</figcaption></figure> View from our dinner table at a burger bar.</figcaption></figure> </figure> We did not order this, but the "USA Poke Bowl" was on the menu and is absolutely wild. I guess having to deal with Americans tastes like this.</figcaption></figure> </figure> question-baby or old man</figcaption></figure> </figure> Day 17 - Tour de France - Marseille, France to Ventimiglia, Italy 2026-07-08T15:14:51.555068544-07:00 July 7, 2026 - biked 50 km (31 mi), train'd 224 km (139 mi) - biked 870 km (541 mi) total</em></p> To keep on schedule, today was another half-train-skip day. We had a delightful breakfast with Clara, then biked up a big hill to the train station with a view in Marseille, and hopped on a train to Nice. Our goal for the rest of the day will be to bike out of France to Italy.</p> This next section, with 1700 ft elevation gain you’d hope the views are worth it. At the midway point we felt betrayed by the route. How can this be sanctioned as the EuroVelo for cyclists like us? I barely passed someone who walked up the hill. The highest grade was 18%.</p> Apparently you can’t leave by bike France without literally biking the Tour de France. We didn't realize it until the top but the EuroVelo was actually following part of the 2020 Tour de France mountain stage 2!</p> David always waits for me to catch up and one such point, I huffed, “I’m about ready to chuck all my bags down the hill.” “But not the one with the cookies!” he quickly double checked.</p> We ate everything remaining, including cheese purchased seven days ago that we hadn’t refrigerated. We feasted just out of Nice, surrounded by mansions with one of the best views in the world and a surprise horse!</p> At the very top, not only were we rewarded with yacht-scattered ocean views but we got to see deeper into the Alps. Eek!</p> After several more stops, we finally made our descent. This is the time where I wait for David. David was feeling a little conflicted about taking this really grueling route instead of taking an easier, but more traffic, sea route through Monaco. Monaco seems like such an interesting place, but then we kept seeing more mega-yachts, more helicopters landing on mega-yachts, and noticed there were no cycle paths through the city and he thinks the grueling hills were the better decision.</p> On a leveling out after a 25mph descent, I just happened to stop in front of probably the fanciest hotels with the richest views. One of the door keepers did the universal sign for drink and I nodded quickly. He gave me water in its rarest form—cold!</p> Even though we were soon done with the descent, we still had 100m of elevation and some km and boarder crossing to cover before reaching our campsite.</p> We are in Italy!</p> I get clumsy when I’m depleted and I refused to blow up my mattress pad before eating dinner. Thankfully, David had a battery powered pump that saved that little bit of energy.</p> We showered, because we try to at least blend in with general society when off-bike, before stuffing our faces, this time with our first brush with Italian food.</p> </iframe> </iframe> </figure> Breakfast utility. Must have?</figcaption></figure> </figure> All boarded up to Nice.</figcaption></figure> </figure> It was hot when we got out the train.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Nice shot and Nice shot. </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> The climb begins.</figcaption></figure> Granny gear activated.</figcaption></figure> We go there. Which was more up.</figcaption></figure> Literally that high.</figcaption></figure> Half way up.</figcaption></figure> We need lunch.</figcaption></figure> David stuffing his face with chocolate croissants. A horse secretly watches from below.</figcaption></figure> I gave the horse a bit of cookie. </figcaption></figure> We finished all our leftovers in one frenzy.</figcaption></figure> David crushing it.</figcaption></figure> Count the yachts.</figcaption></figure> Some castles here are fake. Unclear if this is one of those.</figcaption></figure> Even the junked out cars are Bentleys.</figcaption></figure> Most picturesque pickleball court in the world.</figcaption></figure> </figure> All those hills make sense now. TdF 2020, Stage 2.</figcaption></figure> View into the Alps from the top!</figcaption></figure> Monaco from above. Looks rich.</figcaption></figure> Cold water guys.</figcaption></figure> Monaco is pretty.</figcaption></figure> I could quarantine here.</figcaption></figure> Instagramable. Or at least everyone else was instagramming these steps. </figcaption></figure> Almost there.</figcaption></figure> The Italian border.</figcaption></figure> Italy was mostly tunnels at first.</figcaption></figure> Ventimiglia is an old Roman town built on a hilltop. It shows.</figcaption></figure> Camp first, then shower, then eat.</figcaption></figure> Do you need any bird name ideas? Or perhaps children? </figcaption></figure> Turns out "megayacht supplies" is a business category.</figcaption></figure> First pizza without it sliced for me.</figcaption></figure> Seafood gnocchi.</figcaption></figure> Day 16 - Here is what we say about - Marseille, France 2026-07-07T15:30:32.537564625-07:00 July 6, 2026 - biked 0 km (0 mi), ferry'd 12 km (7.3 mi) - biked 820 km (509 mi) total</em></p> Today was a rest day but we still managed to hike/walk 9+ miles.</p> My housemates’ friend, Clara, was able to host us last minute as her roommate just left on holiday. We stayed in a lovely flat with steep stairs. Our bikes fit snuggled next to the bed so its owners can rest without worry. While camping, the bikes can be free range but in the big cities we like them tucked in close.</p> Mishap</h2> When traveling, even with all the novel sights, sounds and smells, one always finds the urge to search earnestly for the toilette.</p> And when even one person needs to go, all other plans are put on hold.</p> The relief of finding the toilet was quickly delayed when I had to wait for three other people to use it. And I had to wait for the 45 second self-clean cycle between each use.</p> Eventually when it was my turn, I was tempted to just use it after the guy before me, but I let it do its thing and self-clean, watching the countdown timer like it was New Year’s Eve.</p> I had just finished my business when an automated French voice announced something indecipherable to me. Lights dimmed. Things clicked beneath the thing walls and I was trapped.</p> The only thing I could do was accept my fate of witnessing and experiencing this bathroom’s self-clean cycle.</p> I stared at the toilet lifting the seat slightly to flush down the contents. I screamed and jumped up onto a slight platform as soapy water flooded the floors. All the while, loud air blasted like 25 hair dryers turned on all at once.</p> In the midst of all that chaos, I wish I had thought to pull up my clothes because on cue the door opened wide ready to receive its next customer.</p> I discreetly, yet frantically, let them know that someone else was in the stall and pushed the only button I could, but the little bugger wouldn’t close. I had to finish up my stuff with the door wide open, but thankfully the next ‘victims’ gave me space.</p> Don’t recommend trying the city toilets in France. Some free advice from Clara, with an high emotional high cost from me-find a public library and use their facilities instead.</p> Island</h2> After that whole episode, I was ready to move on with our day. I had a craving to go on a boat and swim since that is all we see people doing day after day on the Mediterranean coast.</p> Clara happened to suggested a few things to do in Marseille and one of them was to visit the Îles du Frioul.</p> So we went. Cost only 17€ round trip for a 20 minute boat ride that offers killer views.</p> We ate food right away since we are always hungry. Then we hiked, privately skinny-dipped, hiked some more and boated back.</p> For dinner, we ate three courses at a Lebanese restaurant that just happened to be playing Portugal v Spain. Which was better than missing sleep to see USA get crushed by Belgium.</p> And that concludes our one quick day in Marseille.</p> Watch your step on the wooden edge will just snap off</figcaption></figure> Le Panier district</figcaption></figure> Le Panier district - you can still see her lips</figcaption></figure> Wish this was open </figcaption></figure> Cute street. Cute guy. </figcaption></figure> Boat time </figcaption></figure> Red, white and blue in that order </figcaption></figure> First crepe in France consisted of homemade dark chocolate </figcaption></figure> Dip sight </figcaption></figure> </figure> Stay curious - I literally asked “where do birds go to die.” Found this bird with wings spread as if in midflight.</figcaption></figure> Ferry take us back to marseille </figcaption></figure> Unique bike rack </figcaption></figure> Can’t resist color like this </figcaption></figure> Pear-ly whites</figcaption></figure> Metro - David’s favorite form of city transportation and incredible 60's coloring.</figcaption></figure> Main course of Lebanese food-eggplant, pepper, onion and chickpea with rice. </figcaption></figure> Meet Clara. She is wonderful and does great work in Marseille. </figcaption></figure> Day 15 - Swan Day - Salin-de-Giraud, France to Marseille, France 2026-07-06T14:30:29.348950773-07:00 July 5, 2026 - biked 78 km (49 mi), ferry'd 0.43 km (0.27 mi) - biked 820 km (509 mi) total</em></p> </iframe> Packing up after breakfast.</figcaption></figure> Second ferry of the trip! No horses this time.</figcaption></figure> Get ready to ride down a gravel road on the side of this canal forever. For some reason, none of the windmills were spinning. </figcaption></figure> Also barely pictured, the route we were following went through an industrial wasteland that was now off-limits.</figcaption></figure> Our bikes eat lunch.</figcaption></figure> Two penguins meet two swans. Swans are too big to feel safe near.</figcaption></figure> Some steep old streets.</figcaption></figure> Up to an old walled church!</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> There was this weird "airlock" to prevent motorcycles from going on this one dirt road. It also almost prevented us.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> I am loving the street shade. I want this for Sarah's pergola.</figcaption></figure> New best traffic circle art: live goats.</figcaption></figure> There was a lot of suburbia outside of Marseille and it was brutal.</figcaption></figure> Kettle Chips take note.</figcaption></figure> Final pass over a ridge into Marseille. Hot, cars, slow. Nice shoulder though. A drunk guy at a convenience store told us to go this way because we might burn alive by fire the other way?</figcaption></figure> </figure> The rocks got huge. This was pretty and reminded me of the Sierras. We also saw a pig right after this moment.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Right as we rounded the last bend. This picture does not do it justice. Train bridge with Marseille in the distance across a bay.</figcaption></figure> People were out. There were three miles of cars parked on a windy road to get to this beach.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Maybe we got soft from too much time in the country but Marseille was a shitshow to bike around and was crazy. Chaos in all directions.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> What a move.</figcaption></figure> </figure> We got Tunisian food! Highlight was the homemade lemonade.</figcaption></figure> </figure> We stayed at a friend of a friend's apartment, whose flatmate was away. We continue the tradition of not showing any sleeping arrangements.</figcaption></figure> Day 14 - "Good Return" - La Grande-Motte, France to Salin-de-Giraud, France 2026-07-05T13:39:26.535952003-07:00 July 4, 2026 - biked 75 km (47 mi), ferry'd 0.15 km (0.09 mi) - biked 742 km (461 mi) total</em></p> We aspire to be off route again! The Eurovelo 8 curves north away from the coast around Montpellier, not to return for about 200 km near Cannes. There's a few reasons we want to take the coast road: the other way is hilly, not fully signed and requires a train skip, we want to go to Marseille, a desire to cultivate a spiritual connection to the sea, and flamingoes. We scoured the RideWithGPS heatmap to see which way to take and found a route that was short, but somehow went right over the ocean. That sounded too cool to not do.</p> It was kind of literally that. A storm surge protection berm that ran for 40 km just inland of the beach, surrounded by salt flats, marshes, and shrubs that all flood in the winter when it rains.</p> For Sarah, it was the most pretty scenery yet but unfortunately the pictures don’t capture half of it. She loves flamingoes and wish we had a way to actually capture pictures of their beauty.</p> Halfway on the gravel sand road was a lighthouse, and it ended up being a little shop! Sarah bought some kombucha and it made her very happy. As we were leaving, the attendant told us, "good return". We'll try to live by it. It's easy to get excited about your trip, but really you should get excited about what it means to you once you get back.</p> </iframe> The beach towns around Montpellier continued to be a 60s fever dream of architecture. </figcaption></figure> It kind of reminded me of the old parts of Disney World.</figcaption></figure> The future of architecture is here.</figcaption></figure> Or here.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Not lunch, second breakfast. It was all chocolate croissants anyway.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Do you think this is energy efficient?</figcaption></figure> Want traffic to slow down? Make them literally swerve into the opposing lane.</figcaption></figure> Lunch.</figcaption></figure> Have you ever taken a ferry with horses?????</figcaption></figure> Also it was a paddle ferry. Vintage.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Wade's European car. Look at the plate!</figcaption></figure> </figure> Sand kills.</figcaption></figure> A beach entirely full of rocks shaped into hearts. </figcaption></figure> Endless gravel with marshes on either side.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Surprise! The lighthouse was a little shop!</figcaption></figure> Yes, this is still the right way. No we did not descend into the ocean. </figcaption></figure> Old watchtower / rich man house.</figcaption></figure> </figure> This sign would keep me out of anything. Also saw no evidence of any bulls.</figcaption></figure> Weird-ass bike rack #1742: log with notches cut into it. </figcaption></figure> All the apartments in Salin-de-Giraud were very institutional. </figcaption></figure> What's in the tent? We love building anticipation.</figcaption></figure> Day 13 - Little Devil Bird Rats - Narbonne, France to La Grande-Motte, France 2026-07-04T14:40:53.642036547-07:00 July 3, 2026 - biked 35 km (22 mi), train'd 97 km (60 mi) - biked 667 km (414 mi) total</em></p> After another night of being knocked in the head by my tent from the wind, we packed up, showered, charged our phones while eating two croissants and one chocolate one for around 4€.</p> To keep on our "schedule" we did another train skip morning. We immediately rushed off to the train station to make our 10:08am train from Narbonne to Montpellier. We arrived at our platform sans elevator at 9:59am. We know how to rush, but hate it.</p> After just a one hour train to escape the wind, we rode straight to a brunch spot to eat again. I ordered a salmon with pancakes, salad and lime cream cheese. David had spicy chicken burger with the best potato wedges I have ever eaten in recent memory.</p> Montpellier was nice. Lots more bikes, bike parking, people riding around. Riding in the city with all our bags is tough. We can’t just lock up our bikes without having to lug them around with us. Sometimes we take turns watching the bikes while the other uses the toilette or goes grocery shopping. Being in a bigger city keeps us more vigilant even though I felt safe.</p> Today was hot so we sat down for a red berry smoothie. This is where I witnessed a horror scene of pigeon rats devouring the leftovers of a previous patron. It started out with just one pecking at the bread and then another and another until more than ten pigeons gorging themselves. They knocked knives and forks off the table as they hacked into bread, salad, mushroom and whatever else was there. I had to look away. I lost my appetite for the rest of my smoothie and developed a disgust/fear of Montpellier pigeons. And possibly pigeons everywhere. Little devil bird rats.</p> Our last thing we did was check out this photograph exhibit where they showcased early photographs. Photography was invented in France and they had some actual daguerreotypes from the mid 1800s. One was even one of the first photos ever taken!</p> After the city, we had a short 22 km of biking and a grocery store run so we headed south east out of the city to make it to our campsite with ease.</p> </iframe> </iframe> </figure> Gabs loves the fast ride.</figcaption></figure> We didn’t notice the hooks at first so we had to scramble to adjust when other bikers entered.</figcaption></figure> David has orange juice every single day.</figcaption></figure> Potatoes are the star. Also how has burger branding not taken off everywhere.</figcaption></figure> David loves his trains.</figcaption></figure> Overflow canal with graffiti. </figcaption></figure> We’ve seen bike paths in almost every color now.</figcaption></figure> Plane tree… thanks Napoleon for planting these. </figcaption></figure> Place de la Comédie.</figcaption></figure> Hannah wanted to know about the toilets.</figcaption></figure> Pretty high tech toilet.</figcaption></figure> Revive us smoothie! </figcaption></figure> The start of the hellions arriving.</figcaption></figure> Bikes and cameras have always had a special relationship.</figcaption></figure> </figure> L’Arbre Blanc</figcaption></figure> Apartment building from the ‘60’s? </figcaption></figure> Low key gnocchi</figcaption></figure> Most delicious gnocchi and harissa. See as b</figcaption></figure> Grapes. In 1844.</figcaption></figure> Lively streetcar street.</figcaption></figure> So many beautiful buildings around plazas.</figcaption></figure> Day 12 - A great city we'd never heard of - Narbonne, France 2026-07-04T12:44:13.285581034-07:00 July 2, 2026 - biked 13 km (8.3 mi) - biked 632 km (392 mi) total</em></p> Because the wind was so brutal yesterday, we took a surprise rest day. We'd previously asked Claude where we should spend a rest day in France, and it unexpectedly suggested Narbonne. So here we are living up its dreams. It is nice to explore a town that isn’t as well known.</p> We also loved our two star campsite. It was nice to stay again. We got to order chocolate croissants and baguettes in the evening to be ready in the morning.</p> France, similar to Spain, has 5 star campgrounds equipped with pool, water slides, restaurants, supermarkets, mini golf courses, tennis courts, cosy bungalows with everything you would find in a hotel, bike rentals, beach access, etc., all of which is too much for two bikers and a penguin.</p> We saw the most beautiful cathedral I’ve ever seen. We also saw these old Roman ruins underground. It served as a warehouse/market for grains. We had a great time walking around. It was nice to be tourists somewhere less touristy, but that still wanted people to visit.</p> Rob, our friend in Portland, told us to catch a Spain game. Even though I tried to make it happen, the schedules never lined up while we were in Spain. But this evening, we did see Spain play against Austria in a bar full of French people with only one other person watching the game. I missed all three goals scored and had the half the screen blocked by a group of guys slowly getting drunk. I guess he meant to watch Spain play in Spain.</p> </iframe> New sunglasses.</figcaption></figure> </figure> A market that David bought two new pairs of shorts! Expect some airtime soon. </figcaption></figure> </figure> Cool drainage spout monsters on the cathedral.</figcaption></figure> Ornate organ. </figcaption></figure> When you're the priest, this is your view. Might keep you a priest.</figcaption></figure> For our loved ones that have passed.</figcaption></figure> Album cover.</figcaption></figure> Roman underground storehouse for grain and goods.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> We climbed up? a "dungeon"? This word must not mean what I think it means.</figcaption></figure> View of the cathedral from the dungeon.</figcaption></figure> Best gelato thus far. Strawberry, chocolate sorbet, and something something banana. GPS loved it and continues to be a messy eater.</figcaption></figure> It was so windy our tent blew away but some nice strangers tamped it down using our panniers. We need to carry a hammer for the stakes.</figcaption></figure> Biking back into town to see the world cup.</figcaption></figure> Cathedral money shot.</figcaption></figure> Day 11 - Saint Cyprien, France to Narbonne, France 2026-07-03T13:37:12.888980110-07:00 July 1, 2026 - biked 87 km (54 mi) - biked 618 km (384 mi) total</em></p> If day 8 was all hills then today is all wind. Open your mouth and just focus on exhale because the 45+ mile winds will force air and expand your lungs. If that seems invasive, it’s because it is. Today was beautiful but entirely miserable. We biked so much but also required twice the effort.</p> We left our little 200 sq ft apartment at 11:15am and arrived at our campsite at 8:15pm with only a few stops for food, water, bathroom, and surprise grave yard.</p> How to describe the wind.</p> I almost fell several times. David ran into the curb by the wind. I literally was pushed backwards by the wind while standing. We had to walk up one overpass and pedal hard to even get down the other side.</p> Biking over rocks with the wind was the worst because you swerve one way to avoid the rocks but a gust of wind could magnify that swerve and you go off the path.</p> It was brutal.</p> It took every ounce of mental and physical strength to forge on. In the morning, the ride was so assaulting and my mental space was not great. I went over the interview in my mind, that I had initially thought I nailed, wishing I had answered some questions differently. I thought for sure I wasn’t going to get the job and I knew exactly why. I tried some meditation and non-attachment style thinking. I tried thinking positive thoughts about me getting the job until at some point the wind pummeling my mind numb.</p> C'est la vie.</p> …all you can hear is the wind mile after self-defeating mile. So much effort to go so little. I’d take the heat and hills over the wind. The wind is erratic. Like we hear people say, “Ok, sometime turn off the wind machine!”</p> However, it can be cleansing in a way. Nothing securely strapped or necessary will be stripped away violently.</p> About mile 30, a text came through from the assistant principal. I borrowed some wifi from this one nice lady but couldn’t get a hold of her. I anxiously checked my email and texts. Until I stopped mid-road next to a beautiful canal, and read that I got the job! I screamed, I jumped, I kissed, I cried. When you’re biking and exposed to all the elements all your emotions are right beneath the surface. You have very little energy to filter or keep your mask up.</p> I kept fist pumping the air after I started biking using this adrenaline to keep going.</p> The wind kept whooshing loudly in my ears for the next 24 km we had to bike. It lulled me and all I wanted to was to be off this bike and at the campsite.</p> </iframe> </iframe> This is the moment we knew we should have planned to bike this route the other direction.</figcaption></figure> You can’t tell it how windy it is, but trust it’s base 20 mph and gusts…aka punches of 45 mph wind. </figcaption></figure> Quaint graveyard we stumbled upon during our constant hunt for water fountains and public bathrooms.</figcaption></figure> </figure> The water fountains are not as frequent as in Spain, but the ones in some French parks require you to spin the top. Fun.</figcaption></figure> My face after reading an email that I got the job!</figcaption></figure> Claim your dreams! </figcaption></figure> Still more wind. My helmet came in handy.</figcaption></figure> Ruins on the spit. David is a big ruin guy. Apparently I just kept biking on. </figcaption></figure> More wind not pictured. </figcaption></figure> You could live in a boat on a canal outside of Narbonne.</figcaption></figure> Another setback: my front rack broke. The bolt just wiggled its way free. Thankfully David found both the bolt and the spacer in the middle of the street.</figcaption></figure> Can you see David? </figcaption></figure> We finally made it. And first time ever we have something to sit on. </figcaption></figure> Our lovely two star campsite. Dirt and a chair! </figcaption></figure> 9:45pm and just eating. Both of the cans are David’s. </figcaption></figure> Not pictured, I apparently ate 20€ of sushi</figcaption></figure> My celebratory wine for new job!</figcaption></figure> Proof. And the wind never left us all night long. </figcaption></figure> Day 10 - Capmany, Spain to Sant-Cyprien Plage, France 2026-07-03T01:26:20.226573659-07:00 June 30, 2026 - biked 68 km (42 mi) - biked 531 km (330 mi) total</em></p> We left our cute little "hostel" and began our final day in Spain with a climb. We had met a couple touring yesterday who were doing the PX loop trail around the Pyrenees, which the Eurovelo 8 follows the same path over the mountains to France. They were coming the opposite direction, and said the dirt road to the border on the Spanish side was incredibly difficult. It was very rough and rocky and said going up it would have required mountain bikes. So we decided to skip that section and instead take the local highway, which is paved and less elevation, but more cars. Hopefully not too many cars as there's a parallel expressway that probably most through traffic would take.</p> But even before we got to that skip, we continued on the EV8 on a dirt road into the hills towards La Jonquera and that already was really rough. Baby head rocks, sand, brush. We had to walk our bikes up one section. Then we bombed down into the town to meet the local highway and got our first flat! There is some sort of thorny plant I rode over and found three punctures in my tube, and probably five more thorns in my tires. Sarah did a check of her tires too and found some but none had broken through. Good thing we had Sarah’s tweezers and an extra hour.</p> We were in a rush to get to France so we didn't eat breakfast, so we rolled down the rest of the hill into the suburban outskirts of town to a grocery to get a snack. But this grocery ended up being more of a huge liquor store. Sarah went in and got some wrapped sandwiches, and I discovered my tire went flat again. So we drank pasteurized orange juice from a box and I found one more hole in my tube. Good thing I had another patch kit and an extra hour.</p> The climb into France was gentle and not too bad, but pretty hot and exposed. The border is actually a funny shape. There's a diagonal line through the highway right after a now-disused checkpoint, and then it runs along the road for a kilometer in this border town. The parking on one side of the street you have to go to a Spanish machine, and on the other side, French. El Portùs / La Perthus is a town that feels like a duty free shop, but I don't really know if there's much border arbitrage to be had anymore.</p> We then bombed down the highway shoulder for the shortest 15 km of my life and it was great, then joined the route back towards the coast. France really kicked up the infrastructure on the Eurovelo. All the paths through the rolling hills were concrete paved and had consistent signage and labeled arrows on the ground. It was easy. France had way different vibes immediately: more suburban, more infrastructure, more people, more agriculture. France definitely feels like a richer country, but there are some things we immediately missed about Spain, like water being a human right and fountains in every park. More about these differences in later posts.</p> Once we made it to the coast, we started biking north looking for camping again. The coast here is just as fancy as north of Barcelona, so it was all four and five star "campsites" which were just resorts and many didn't take tents. We cooked dinner in a city park, onion, tomato, pasta, potato, tuna. A delight. Then as the sun was setting I did some scouting for guerrilla campsites. Everything around us was so suburban, though, and no options felt private enough to be appropriate. Bivouac camping is legal in France (sundown to sunup with just a tent) but we didn't want to attract attention. The best I could find was a dirt road that ended in the landscape shed for a golf course. And even though we've gotten buff and can climb a short mountain pass, we love a shower at the end of each day. Sarah ended up finding an apartment for rent online for a night for so cheap, surprise literally across from the park where we cooked dinner. So my extra riding was not for today, and we lugged our panniers up an unlit staircase in an abandoned apartment building to sleep on a pull-out couch. Worth it.</p> </iframe> Hostel was still cute in the morning.</figcaption></figure> </figure> We had to push our bikes up this part...</figcaption></figure> </figure> Getting up.</figcaption></figure> We saw a lot of cork trees that had been harvested.</figcaption></figure> Cork bark looks just like corks!</figcaption></figure> </figure> Getting some good final views of Spain.</figcaption></figure> Flat number one.</figcaption></figure> Thorns. In. Tires.</figcaption></figure> This is not a grocery store.</figcaption></figure> Mediocre sandwich. Great lady.</figcaption></figure> Flat number one, second act.</figcaption></figure> </figure> France ahead.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Disused checkpoint.</figcaption></figure> </figure> The border runs along this dotted line.</figcaption></figure> </figure> 14 km of downhill!</figcaption></figure> Great French route signs.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Our first picnic table we saw on this entire trip.</figcaption></figure> The route teased us with fancy campgrounds with water slides.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Our first view of French sea.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Park cooking.</figcaption></figure> </figure> This is the only picture of the apartment we have. But it has a cool name.</figcaption></figure> Day 9 - Sant Pere Pescador, Spain to Capmany, Spain 2026-06-30T13:46:12.029067259-07:00 June 29, 2026 - biked 40 km (25 mi) - biked 464 km (288 mi) total</em></p> I had an interview at 6pm, so we needed to book a place with reliable internet. Also I’m still sore from the climbs a few days ago, so today was kind of like a rest day. I sometimes lie to myself and that’s ok.</p> David booked this cute hostel in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains that came with a bottle of red wine.</p> Our bikes got their first shower today! They are so filthy from traversing these Spanish dirt and rock roads, so David hosed them off and even cleaned and greased Sarah’s chain while I was interviewing. Sigh.</p> It’s our last night in Spain and we have a few thoughts:</p> We liked 1 out of 3 sangrias we tried.</p> </li> Other wine and alcohol is actually way cheaper than the states.</p> </li> People are generally very nice to bikes, but we’ve witnessed some pretty upset drivers.</p> </li> Everyone wants to speak in English than practice our Spanish.</p> </li> Our Spanish has improved.</p> </li> </ul> We will miss Spain. But tomorrow we cross the border to France!</p> </iframe> My fav! </figcaption></figure> To the Pyrenees we go! </figcaption></figure> Another church.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Catalan separatist flag. Alludes to Cuba and Puerto Rico.</figcaption></figure> GPS has a seatbelt now.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Tickle.</figcaption></figure> Arsene chatted with us for a bit and another one obsessed with David’s bike.</figcaption></figure> Interview spot with good WiFi and light…stay tuned!</figcaption></figure> A cozy place with stone.</figcaption></figure> Day 8 - WE LOST GPS - Platja d'Aro, Spain to Sant Sere Pescador, Spain 2026-06-29T14:55:15.317748484-07:00 June 28, 2026 - biked 83 km (51 mi) - biked 424 km (263 mi) total</em></p> We had a delightful day with a good combo of beachside paths, dirt roads, and slight hills. We were pooped and ready to get to camp when we made it to one final lookout over the Golf de Roses and our campsite on the shore and France just over the hills when we looked down and...</p> GPS WAS GONE. Our penguin mascot fell out from peeking out of the top my front pannier somewhere along the bumpy dirt roads of the day. This made me very sad that we didn't notice. We had a big sulk thinking of what this means spiritually for our trip. I gave a few of my bags to Sarah and sprinted back on our path to try to find the stuffed penguin. I looked until he got to the dirt road section, then stashed the rest of my bags for speed. GPS is not bouncy and full of beans, so wherever he fell, he'd plop right in the middle of the road, so i'd look for a penguin each straightaway, and then race to the next turn. 10 km back, there he was, sitting next to a corn field being flooded.</p> I zipped him into my frame bag completely for safe keeping and went to get my stuff and catch up to Sarah at camp.</p> We decided this loss meant we were going too fast, and not spending enough time examining our surroundings. And on the other hand, that we were having a trip so good we loved taking in the surroundings and conversation. Both can be true. We're going to try to both slow it down and keep enjoying everything the next few days.</p> </iframe> We are becoming connoisseurs of traffic circle art. </figcaption></figure> Salmon bagel yes.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> The second most famous work of Gustave Eiffel!</figcaption></figure> </figure> Lunch under a cork tree.</figcaption></figure> We found this old church with murals from the 1400s. You put euros in the door.</figcaption></figure> And the lights come on!</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Want a protected cycle path. Bam. Put in trees. Right in the asphalt. </figcaption></figure> Snails are trending on this part of the route.</figcaption></figure> </figure> We are becoming connoisseurs of traffic circle art. </figcaption></figure> Headless torch man for '92 Olympics.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> He lied here.</figcaption></figure> </figure> End of day swim.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> We are so happy to see camp in the distance and France is just over those hills. Shortly, we will be very sad.</figcaption></figure> Very sad we lost our mascot.</figcaption></figure> GPS made it back to camp. </figcaption></figure> Day 7 - Blanes, Spain to Platja d’Aro, Spain 2026-06-29T13:43:58.150319497-07:00 June 27, 2026 - biked 49 km (30 mi) - biked 341 km (212 mi) total</em></p> We biked up. We biked down. It was worth the incredible views. But my oh my, my legs will be sore for days.</p> </iframe> Hills up to 12+ grade</figcaption></figure> Gorgeous </figcaption></figure> Nonstop views at the top of the hill </figcaption></figure> Can’t get enough </figcaption></figure> Gabs got out of the bag for this scene…dressed a bit too warm but so were we </figcaption></figure> Found this cool church at the bottom of the hills</figcaption></figure> Immediately had to jump in the sea</figcaption></figure> </figure> Celebrate with wine</figcaption></figure> Best name ever </figcaption></figure> 6 churros for €6</figcaption></figure> </figure> Celebrate with beer</figcaption></figure> Day 6 - Barcelona, Spain to Blanes, Spain 2026-06-29T11:32:18.355378459-07:00 June 26, 2026 - biked 78 km (48 mi) - biked 292 km (181 mi) total</em></p> We could’ve stayed longer in Barcelona, but with so much more to explore in Spain we wanted get back on the road.</p> It was tough, slow going. The route weaved between biking along the sea, to back under the railroad tracks, to back along the road. Navigation is Sarah's least favorite part of each day. There are other things to dislike, like unnecessary loud vehicles or teenagers talking from 3am to 9pm right by your tent, but that nothing compared to the navigation.</p> You make one wrong turn and you just wasted time and energy going up a hill. Then you have to go back to where you started, further depleted. To be vigilant annd avoid a wrong turn, you must stop frequently sometimes to double check you’re still on the route, hopefully in a shady spot where you can see your phone. Sarah’s poor navigation can be blamed on her mother and years of dependency on Google Maps.</p> Camping</h2> Camping in Spain is weird. It is all resort camping equipped with water slides for the children, security guards, bracelets to show you’re a member, motor homes and camping trailers for permanent residents. Needless to say, it’s a lot more than we ever want or need. But unfortunately we have to pay the cost for all these extra amenities or keep searching for a different spot.</p> Today was one of those days. On the very first night of camping in Spain it actually only cost €17, which set our expectations. The second night was €21. The third night was €39 because of the John the Baptist Nativity holiday. It put a sour taste in our mouth to pay so much for a worse campsite the night prior so we determined to not let that happen again.</p> We cycled up to one resort type camp, pretty much the only ones around and they said it would cost €45. Even more? We literally have one tent and two bikes. We went to another one and they didn’t even take people like us with tents, only RV’s. We cycled further up the road and asked another site. They charged €50. We realized we might be in the Big Sur/Carmel of Spain. We had to cycle another 10 km to get a campsite for €37. We saved a few pennies but we also biked the most miles yet! Win win?</p> </iframe> </figure> GPS continued to lead the way today.</figcaption></figure> It was so hot I lost Sarah.</figcaption></figure> White Mulberry. Tasty mid-day snack.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Somehow the route told us to go down this embankment and then turn directly into the sea.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Hella secret beaches that everyone knows of.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Feeling good starting the day. </figcaption></figure> Barcelona had all these cool 70s modular stoplights.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Something burns in the distance. We avoided the smoke, though. Turned out to be a forest fire, maybe set on purpose?</figcaption></figure> Decommissioned coal plant. The "windows" used to have the boilers in them directly mounted to the smoke stacks. Huge in the Barcelona skyline.</figcaption></figure> We are not sure what the other 8% is.</figcaption></figure> The oldest train tunnel in Spain. </figcaption></figure> Lots of beach and train. Also the first railway in Spain.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> This guy.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> We did not even stop here, but this set the tone. </figcaption></figure> </figure> One camp site we were aiming for turned out to be just a functional ferris wheel.</figcaption></figure> This place refused us. 😛</figcaption></figure> Beach outside our site we finally landed at.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Day 4 & 5 - FFWD - Benicarló, Spain to Barcelona, Spain 2026-06-27T13:14:21.303063917-07:00 June 24-25, 2026 - biked 25 km (15 mi), train'd 220 km (137 mi) - biked 214 km (133 mi) total</em></p> We only have two months off, so we don't actually have enough time to ride the full EuroVelo 8. So on this trip we are taking some judicious skip days via train, and today is one of those days! We shaved off three days of biking by taking a 3 hour regional rail train straight to Barcelona. It's so nice to take a train where we can wheel our bikes and bags on and not need to do any planning.</p> While cramming ourselves into an elevator, with barely any room left, this one guy threw himself into the middle of the bikes with his big roller bag. He was so excited to tell us that he saw us biking in Ben Carlo which was days ago. Apparently he was driving and let us pass. He remembered David very well but he couldn’t see me with all my gear.</p> Barcelona is so great! Such a wonderful biking city! They have biking lanes, as opposed to Madrid. We spent only 1.5 days walking around, biking around and eating.</p> David’s favorite part of Barcelona were the streets. All of the new part of the city was a grid with wide tree lined streets and tall buildings. The shade of the buildings and trees made it cool and inviting. Then every intersection had set-back beveled corners, so the buildings had a focus for their facades, and the space opened up, but the corners were filled with plaza seating or parking, so the space was cozy, not a traffic zoo. Also cycle tracks everywhere.</p> Sarah wasn’t impressed with the sangria, but boy, were they strong. She enjoyed our two and a half hour long tour. We learned about the history of Barcelona, a little of the current politics, and Gaudi. The modernist design of the buildings was definitely striking and memorable, if not a little unsettling.</p> We went on a funicular to get to a city view where the 1992 Olympics high dive and water polo took place. See picture below. We happened to catch a high school water polo game. Both of us are not huge sports watchers, but we stayed fascinated by the game. Quite horrifying, one guy got scratched and blood gushing from his eye. Quite violent, but in all other aspects, lower risks for injury. The next day, while doing laundry in our hostel, we saw one of the polo teams emerge from their rooms! How wild that we stayed at the same hostel in such a massive city.</p> It was a very touristed city, and that made it feel a little weird. You know things are tough when there are signs everywhere on light posts in English that say "Fines of €3.000 for anti-social behavior." But even the parts that were "touristed" were not "touristy". The beach towns were more touristy. One of my other favorite parts was walking up to a viewpoint on a hill and walking through apartment plazas and side streets and seeing random bars in residential area packed, or smelling people's dinners wafting out of windows. There are some non-touristed parts. I dream that every city can have a part as beautiful and compelling and maybe they don't need to all come to Barcelona.</p> *order of photos is scattered but we are trying to fix it.</p> </iframe> </iframe> </iframe> </iframe> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> A tad disappointing to not be biking but can’t do it all</figcaption></figure> </figure> Luxury </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Syrian food</figcaption></figure> Beloved bike lanes</figcaption></figure> Sagrada familia </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Olympic view with water polo</figcaption></figure> Tapas</figcaption></figure> No caption necessary </figcaption></figure> </figure> So much food</figcaption></figure> </figure> More walking tour </figcaption></figure> That’s a mouthful</figcaption></figure> Square where forty orphans died and now it’s a school playground </figcaption></figure> </figure> Walking tour</figcaption></figure> Women owned house back early 1900’s where husband left her so she made this</figcaption></figure> Another modernist house</figcaption></figure> Gaudi house </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Substantial </figcaption></figure> </figure> OJ and Sangria </figcaption></figure> High dive ‘92 Olympics</figcaption></figure> Gaze at the trains </figcaption></figure> A random guy wanted to borrow David’s bike to do a photo shoot</figcaption></figure> Not a huge fan of this build </figcaption></figure> Day 3 - Benicàssim, Spain to Benicarlò, Spain 2026-06-25T14:45:22.692476803-07:00 June 23, 2026 - biked 74 km (46 mi) - biked 189 km (118 mi) total</em></p>* Who is Beni? Why does he have two towns named after him?</p> Toughest day yet with an unexpected huge gravel climb, intense sun. If that wasn’t enough, David made sure I did several small hikes to see ruins and walks to the beach throughout the day. But we did stuff our faces with chicken, salmon sandwiches, fries and soda.</p> This day happened to be a holiday, St. John the Baptist nativity day, where it is celebrated with a bonfire and fireworks at midnight.</p> </iframe> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> A lot of the day was on an old rail grade with amazing cool tunnels and cutouts.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> This tunnel felt like A/C. It was amazing. </figcaption></figure> </figure> Emergency snack. </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Hot. </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Castle town here we come!</figcaption></figure> </figure> Campsite. No mosquitos. </figcaption></figure> Beach sunset walk. The festival fireworks were at midnight and we could not keep our eyes open to see them. </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Dinner time! </figcaption></figure> Day 2 - Cornito, Spain to Benicàssim, Spain 2026-06-24T13:35:08.832818866-07:00 June 22, 2026 - biked 61 km (38 mi) - biked 116 km (72 mi) total</em></p> We stopped just following bike paths in the beach towns and finally made it to the EuroVelo route! Outside of the towns there are these nice orange-pole-d signs for every turn. In towns, you're on your own though.</p> We didn’t have any camp stove fuel to make breakfast, so we stopped at this local bar where everyone was almost twice our age. The bartender didn't have a menu, but showed us to the food warmer and we had an incredible garlic scape frittata and a fried fish.</p> We needed fuel so we went to this huge outdoor sporting store, Decathlon, that’s a combination of REI, Foot Locker, and Walmart. And guess what?!? They also had the same knives that the Spanish train confiscated. So we bought another pair.</p> At this Florida campsite, David whipped up this amazing dinner with our remaining groceries. It consisted of gnocchi and red sauce mixed in with finely chopped onions (thanks to our knife!) and canned tuna.</p> Afterwards we dipped in the Mediterranean Sea for the first time. Warm like a hug and refreshing like a sangria. Other than the stress of routing through malls and big box stores to get the stove fuel, it was a pretty chill day.</p> </iframe> </figure> All the towns let you know you are there with big letters. </figcaption></figure> We were so famished we did not take a picture of our late breakfast. But it was fish and then a garlic scape omelette from this bar and it was amazing.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Beach town loves a cycle path.</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> This grocery store had a machine to squeeze orange juice!</figcaption></figure> Otters!</figcaption></figure> On the side of this highway was the history of the bicycle.</figcaption></figure> Sometimes the bike path was not glamorous. </figcaption></figure> Knives and fuel place. It's like a cross between REI, Foot Locker, and Wal-Mart.</figcaption></figure> This city has red bike lanes. Most do.</figcaption></figure> OCEAN GOING BOUNCY CASTLE WATER PARK</figcaption></figure> The camp for this day. </figcaption></figure> </figure> The knife we rebought. Stock photo.</figcaption></figure> We saw our first EuroVelo 8 sign!</figcaption></figure> </figure> Day 1 - Valencia, Spain to Corinto, Spain 2026-06-23T00:45:44.199201584-07:00 June 21, 2026 - biked 53 km (33 mi), train'd 398 km (247 mi) - biked 55 km (34 mi) total</em></p> Day 1 unexpectedly started a day early! Our housing in Valencia canceled so we scrambled to find another place and it just so happened to be 38 km (23 mi or 2 hour bike ride) outside of Valencia.</p> We started biking after the train from Madrid arrived at 12:30pm. The Spanish trains are very strict! They confiscated our French made knives because they were dos centímetros too long.</p> Even though it wasn’t the official EuroVelo, it looked like there was a bike path right on the beach up the whole way. It ended up being 27 miles of winding beach boardwalks and sandy nature trails. Dragging our bikes through sand. Biking over big rocks. Small rocks. Weird bumpy pavers. We arrived at our campsite at around 8pm with no fuel to make dinner. So we snacked on cheese/crackers and canned tuna. It was delicious. This cheese Mescla is a must have.</p> David was a great navigator, even if he lead us on treacherous roads. One of the cursed roads led us to a bird sanctuary and we saw this cool black and white bird.</p> Even though we had to hustle and start biking sooner than expected, we found ourselves ready. We’ve been preparing for this trip for over 6 months and it felt good to meet the road that will bring us to many more places.</p> </iframe> </iframe> We had to reassemble our bikes after the train </figcaption></figure> First view of the Mediterranean!</figcaption></figure> Treacherous road not pictured </figcaption></figure> </figure> Related to the penguin? ;) </figcaption></figure> Isn’t she beautiful? </figcaption></figure> Graffiti that captured my mood</figcaption></figure> Our bikes lived in our room in Madrid.</figcaption></figure> And it sucked to carry them down the stairs.</figcaption></figure> Riding to the train station. </figcaption></figure> No one is driving at Sunday, 9am in Madrid.</figcaption></figure> We made it with 7 minutes to spare. No pictures of the frantic bike disassembly and bagging and knife confiscation.</figcaption></figure> Mesarunner tucked in the quiet car.</figcaption></figure> David is frazzled. </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Padrón </figcaption></figure> </figure> Valencia had way more bike paths. And way more bikes. </figcaption></figure> </figure> Paella valenciana</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Sarah sees the cool bird through a bird blind in the nature reserve. </figcaption></figure> </figure> Not sure what this former industry was but it looked cool. </figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> Night 1 campsite.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Sarah touches the Mediterranean for the first time.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Day Negative 1 & 0 - Walking Madrid - Madrid, Spain 2026-06-22T13:15:02.304988625-07:00 June 19-20, 2026 - biked 0 km (0 mi) - biked 2 km (1.2 mi) total</em></p> We walked. That we did for two days. That's what one does when we'd have to carry our bikes up and down five flights of stairs and there's nowhere to lock them up when we get wherever we are going. So our bikes rested while Sarah's new shoes were put to the test.</p> We did a walking tour, visited some markets, some free art museums, had lunch wine, tried to watch world cup games, and saw a Flamenco show.</p> It's a really great city to walk. We learned that whenever we are tired, we are actually hungry. That Irish pubs are too crowded with people watching soccer to actually watch soccer. And that the metro and wine should be this cheap every where.</p> We enjoyed the Flamenco dance the most. We enjoyed it in a very intimate space with about 20 other people. Three dancers, one singer and one guitar player expressed their heart and culture with such talent. They put so much effort. It was so visible in the sweat and marks on the stage.</p> As we watched the sunset, there was a little thunderstorm.</p> Walking tour started in Plaza Mayor.</figcaption></figure> Walking tour stopped by Mercado de San Miguel, but said it was overhyped. It's might not have been though?</figcaption></figure> From the fruit stand. Sarah loves watermelon. The fruit was too good.</figcaption></figure> Nuns sell cookies by the kilo remotely through this door.</figcaption></figure> CentroCentro is a community center and free art gallery run by the city in a beautiful old post office.</figcaption></figure> Imagine mailing things surrounded by this beauty.</figcaption></figure> The thought of returning from two month long trip.</figcaption></figure> Took a longer metro ride.</figcaption></figure> Ghost station! Chamberí. Preserved as it was when it was built in 1919.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Flamenco sangría</figcaption></figure> Flamenco. This guy sweat through an entire three piece suit. He was awesome.</figcaption></figure> </figure> Our first spanish wine in Spain.</figcaption></figure> David holding the tiniest cup of espresso.</figcaption></figure> Gremlins below a statue of Lucifer. (Not pictured to maintain decorum.)</figcaption></figure> I missed the lightning, but a baby thunderstorm seen from the palace.</figcaption></figure> Day Negative 2 - Biking then Not Biking around Madrid - Madrid, Spain 2026-06-20T04:46:04.306550898-07:00 June 18, 2026 - biked 2 km (1.2 mi) - biked 2 km (1.2 mi) total</em></p> After assembling our bikes we took the metro to escape the airport then rode the 20 minutes from the airport metro line stop to our hostel. First biking impressions in Madrid were... mixed. Not a big cycling town. We saw maybe five other bicycles the whole way. Mostly food delivery on e-bikes, and then some folks on pay-per-ride "city bikes". The small side streets are lovely but the major streets just have some sharrows in the right lane and you go with traffic. Cars are slow and quite nice but you are surrounded and it's way more stressful than zagging on the side streets, but they don't always go through.</p> Madrid also has so little bike parking. There were almost no staples or racks anywhere. You might have to walk a kilometer to find staple racks. There are also very few street signs sized to lock to. Also the only place to store our bikes overnight safely was either in our hostel room on the 5th floor or at a parking garage 2 km away where you pay per day. So we decided to keep the bikes in our room for our three days here and just walk or take the metro to places. Biking will begin on Sunday then.</p> After so much traveling and a nap, we finally got some dinner and took a quick walk around! And then went right back to bed.</p> </iframe> Front and back cars on the subway train have bike spots. But not every line allows them. </figcaption></figure> We ride for the first time!</figcaption></figure> Great little streets.</figcaption></figure> Sarah was so tired and ready to sleep immediately. </figcaption></figure> </figure> View from hostel room</figcaption></figure> Finally got some dinner the first night</figcaption></figure> Bikes safe and sleepy in the hostel room</figcaption></figure> Departure and Arrival 2026-06-20T04:40:41.993191840-07:00 We stayed up till 1:40am playing real life Tetris in order to pack our bikes in unnecessarily small boxes we got by mistake. Then we basically rethought every item we packed and culled some and added some.</p> Here are our updated stats:</p> David’s stuff—38.5lb</p> Sarah’s stuff—46.1lb</p> Departure Day</h1> After Greg dropped us off at the airport with such rockstar energy, we struggled to the line with bike boxes in tow, juggling our panniers that serve best as bike luggage and not airline carry ons.</p> Alexi, a little girl behind us said hi and shook our hands. She immediately said David handsome and me-beautiful, and that we made a lovely couple. She asked me what my favorite number and color. And I asked her if she thought 6-7 was still cool. She did. She said every time the numbers 6-7 were mentioned in class, they went wild, but not everyone. Axolotles, lububi, something about toilet, and cute kawakas followed as we scooted and snaked our away closer.</p> As invasively friendly as Alexi was, she did distract us from the mind-seizing anticipation of the weight scale and the gamble of the kindness of the ticket agent.</p> The agent was very kind. She didn’t charge us $75 each for the checked bikes and she simply said to David, “Your bike must be heavier” when his bike turned up 2lb over the airline luggage limit.</p> We said goodbye to Alexi who was on her way to see her dad in Oklahoma. Her grandmother wishes Alexi was shy. I agree.</p> After a layover in Atlanta and another puzzle of configuring our limbs in a way to try and sleep, we arrived in the Madrid airport in the middle of our night and very sleep deprived.</p> I worried about the state of my bike because in Atlanta, I saw the bottom of my bike box breaking open as it came off the plane.</p> Arrival</h1> When we started to unpack our bikes in a space off the side of the baggage claim, I literally freaked out and involved more people than necessary when I couldn’t my bag that included the front wheel axle sewer, bike tools and bolt. Without these my bike is useless.</p> David reassured me that all those metal pieces could be easily replaced. I had done everything I could to see if it was still on the plane and gave my information to the airlines in case a small bag with tools was found.</p> As David continued to assemble his bike, all I could do was start packing up the stuff I could. To find anything, all you need to do is pick up something you thought you already picked up before to find out that you hadn’t. And that’s exactly what happened! I found it!</p> Lesson to myself: don’t jump to the worst of every situation and get more sleep!</p> We were now able to ride off into the heat of Madrid to find our hostel.</p> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Going Away Party 2026-06-17T12:00:34.459686084-07:00 Thank you for coming to our going away party. The sun showed up in full heat and yet you still ventured out to send us off. We felt the love and warm wishes of adventure and safety.</p> For those of you who couldn’t make it or are far away, let's bring the party to you.</p> We had a bike and gear weight guess with closest guess to be awarded either a free bike tune up or cake! (When we get back.)</p> David's gear - 40.4 lb</p> David's Mesarunner bike - 38.4 lb</p> Sarah's gear - 41.4 lb</p> Sarah's ‘Frankie’ bike - 34.0 lb</p> Grand totaling to 154.2 lb!</p> Kelly wins with a guess of 160 lb! We had quite the range of guesses from 50 lb to 297 lb. We appreciated everyone who followed their heart, even if it was way off. We assume your heart is useful in other contexts.</p> As an aside, I wanted to celebrate my birthday early so david made a decadent lemon blueberry Bundt cake that got devoured onsite, mere hours after leaving the oven.</p> Thank you for helping us name our penguin mascot. His official name is now Gabriel Penguin Spirit or GPS! Close seconds were picture below. We appreciate, but politely decline, Ellie and Eric’s offers to legally adopt.</p> Thanks for showing us off! We will take your good penguin spirit with us.</p> We will post about our final departure moment soon!</p> </figure> David weighing his bike + gear</figcaption></figure> All our gear…for now</figcaption></figure> A gift from a child to protect us on our journey </figcaption></figure> Birthday cake with big candle</figcaption></figure> Top runner ups</figcaption></figure> Meet our mascot</figcaption></figure> </figure> </figure> </figure> Our last guest to arrive, my dear kitty </figcaption></figure> First post! 2026-05-27T04:57:28.788095176+00:00 Hi! We are Sarah and David and we're about to go on a big bike trip. This summer, we are going to bike the Mediterranean from Valencia, Spain to Athens, Greece for Sarah's birthday! We're going to post pictures and updates here for our friends.</p> We're getting our bikes ready the next few weeks!</p> Frankie is Sarah's bike</figcaption></figure> The Mesarunner is David's bike</figcaption></figure>

Penguins Bike

Day 37 - Sarah Navigates - Ravno, Bosnia & Hercegovina to Tuli, Bosnia & Hercegovina

2026-07-29T09:38:04.961969291-07:00

July 27, 2026 biked 37.6 miles

David has been the navigator and mostly the photographer, but this morning his phone didn’t charge. So I took up navigating.

Later that morning, David’s pump came apart mid tire fill up. It just needed a very small hex key to fix but we didn’t have one. We both deflated our tires the previous day when riding over the gravel.

We continued biking on the Čiro trail with views of the mountains, valley, farmland and ghost towns of stone buildings. The ride in the morning was idyllic-paved, flat and hardly any cars.

When we started to approach Trebinje, David noticed a workshop spilling with tools and granite stone.

We stopped and chatted for about an hour about all sorts of things. Very interesting guy who has roots in Serbia. He has three young kids and so we gave him three of our stickers that have animals riding bikes.

We still had quite the climb before our remote campsite, but we made sure to get some groceries before. We made it to our A-frame stay at 8pm and reserved the last option available. The place was so nicely equipped for only 18€.

Start the day with OJ</figcaption></figure>
I remember this cheese from my childhood…or something similar. </figcaption></figure>
This cool cave is 11 degrees C. It was so cold just standing outside of it. </figcaption></figure>
All the bugs and spiders like David’s bike. </figcaption></figure>
Abandoned old train station </figcaption></figure>
Abandoned old train station </figcaption></figure>
Stevie Wonder is featured here! </figcaption></figure>
The ceiling is falling down </figcaption></figure>
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The attic junk </figcaption></figure>
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Riding into town after all these abandoned towns the last two days </figcaption></figure>
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Also milk from my childhood</figcaption></figure>
And not just corny but big corny </figcaption></figure>
The guys stone work insta page </figcaption></figure>
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Rivers! David wished we stayed in this town with a river and a river fountain </figcaption></figure>
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Walled city </figcaption></figure>
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Can’t tell in the picture but this cow has a leash </figcaption></figure>
More trash but a nice sunset </figcaption></figure>
We rested at every opportunity on our steep climb to the rural place </figcaption></figure>
Suns getting lower and we are getting higher </figcaption></figure>
Sun is down </figcaption></figure>
And we arrived </figcaption></figure>
How cute! </figcaption></figure>
Cooking dinner takes so much effort </figcaption></figure>
Even if it’s just pasta with chopped onions and garlic </figcaption></figure>
Now we can sleep</figcaption></figure>

Day 35 - Blaćina, Croatia to Dračevo, Bosnia & Hercegovina

2026-07-28T13:25:50.429201135-07:00

July 25, 2026 - biked 36 km (22 mi) - biked 1400 km (870 mi) total
After a light bike day, we made it to Bosnia & Herzegovina! The border was a bit intimidating since all other border crossings we just biked right through. Here they had a guard who scanned our passports and took our pictures.
Once in B&H, we immediately noticed all the trash on the side of the road. It was a bit sad since everything else was so green and beautiful.
Our cheapest campsite was tonight. Only 10 Euro for both of us. It was basically a river beach bar that we camped in front of. Very limited amenities but we don’t need much. </iframe>
Lunch time </figcaption></figure>
Local drink but this time with lime taste </figcaption></figure>
Another 60’s modernist energy </figcaption></figure>
Sometimes you have to trespass through tunnels</figcaption></figure>
A little climbing but its asphalt </figcaption></figure>
A memorial to a canal during WWII that helped bring supplies to Dubrovnik. </figcaption></figure>
All the bridges in Croatia are painted this same color blue. </figcaption></figure>
Stopping to get some fuel for our camping experience. </figcaption></figure>
The boarder post crossing. </figcaption></figure>
This is the Čiro trail! Another old rail grade turn bike path. </figcaption></figure>
Rusty bridges</figcaption></figure>
Broken bridges that were pretty scary to cross. </figcaption></figure>
But this fisherman was chill about the loose boards and open gaps </figcaption></figure>
I held on to the railing and would sacrifice my bike to the water below if anything snapped. </figcaption></figure>
Gnocchi dinner again </figcaption></figure>
Our campsite by the water. </figcaption></figure>

Day 34 - The weaker sex - Korčula, Croatia to Blaćina, Croatia

2026-07-27T15:03:59.727338160-07:00

July 24, 2026 - biked 28 km (18 mi), ferry'd 18 km (11 mi) - biked 1364 km (848 mi) total
I learned once again why women are called the weaker sex.
Today we had one ferry, one island crossing by bike and then another ferry as we continued to island hop our way south.
On the island crossing there are two ways to go 1) the same road as cars but a bit longer or 2) over steep gravel (aka big rocks that you might see on train tracks) road with some sections 14% grade.
If you’re following us at all, you’ll know we do a lot of gravel/rock roads to avoid the traffic on the main roads. That would be great but we brought the wrong bikes for that kind of road. Our bikes have no suspension, so our bodies absorb every bump. It’s so difficult we can’t ride on it going uphill and sometimes not even downhill. So we pop off our bikes and hike.
One hand on the bar to steer and another hand on my seat to pull, it was hard to make progress especially since my feet would slip on the uneven ground.
I was falling behind so David took one of my back bags. And then another. He still managed to progress further up the hill faster than me with only two of my smallest, lightest bags.
I struggled on. It’s not like I’ve done more mileage than him in the past week.
I know I’m strong, but not strong in the way that I needed today. I was humbled.
It took us 1.5 hours to climb a little over half a mile with 600 ft evaluation gain.
Great views but we were beat. Definitely type two fun.
To further my weakness, on the way down, I fell off my bike on the loose rocks and hurt my wrist. It’s a pretty bad bruise on the palm of my hand which is where my hands steer while biking.
Nonetheless, we made it to our ferry after bike/hiking almost 5 hours to go 8.9 miles and jumped in the lake near our campsite. </iframe> </iframe> </iframe>
GPS looking sharp </figcaption></figure>
Leaving our campsite </figcaption></figure>
First ferry</figcaption></figure>
David took a midday swim </figcaption></figure>
Best view for a water fountain </figcaption></figure>
He’s waving and smiling because we are biking on asphalt. Asphalt the most wonderful invention. </figcaption></figure>
That’s me struggling </figcaption></figure>
Me pausing to take a picture of David beasting up the hill with one bag </figcaption></figure>
Too far away to tell, but now he has two of my bags. </figcaption></figure>
Weird egg like structures that had info on it because this is technically a bike path. </figcaption></figure>
This picture shows my two back bags that are now on David’s bike. </figcaption></figure>
I finally pulled ahead in this moment. Or David lagged behind on purpose to take this photo. (I moved my two light panniers to the back). </figcaption></figure>
Gotta appreciate the view or it wasn’t worth it. </figcaption></figure>
David isn’t tall enough he must get taller. </figcaption></figure>
David’s load vs my load </figcaption></figure>
Toothless selfie at the top</figcaption></figure>
Walking even on the downhill because our bikes can’t take this rock. </figcaption></figure>
My bruise </figcaption></figure>
We caught our 5pm ferry back to the mainland. Our island hopping is done for now…but maybe in Greece? </figcaption></figure>
Virgin Mary on the island </figcaption></figure>
How to put on a life jacket</figcaption></figure>
Businessman statue looking at the bishop statue. </figcaption></figure>
Almost to the campsite </figcaption></figure>
The campsite is full, but the host squeezed us in next to the car. </figcaption></figure>
Swim time in fresh water this time. It takes so much more effort to swim in fresh water than salt water. </figcaption></figure>

Day 33 - Remote Island - Split, Croatia to Korčula, Croatia

2026-07-27T14:58:49.476300194-07:00

July 23, 2026 - biked 49 km (30 mi), ferry'd 84 km (52 mi) - biked 1336 km (830 mi) total
Please listen to these cicada noises</a> to get the full experience while reading this post.
Today we continued to use ferries to help us scoot down Croatia without needing to ride the busy coast road. We took a ferry from Split to Vela Luka and are going to bike the length of that island then ferry back to the mainland. This island, Korčula, is very quiet and has a main road down the spine, but a gravel path all along the north coast that looked extra quiet and scenic, so we took that! </iframe> </iframe>
Leaving our cool apartment. Sarah has her "bonnet" on. Standard issue.</figcaption></figure>
Pick a ferry. Any ferry!</figcaption></figure>
Ferry terminal was busy.</figcaption></figure>
They check your ticket on the boat. </figcaption></figure>
There is an under-dungeon for cars. I never figured out how to get down there.</figcaption></figure>
This ferry has an escalator. Sarah is now running for president.</figcaption></figure>
This ferry has a Duck Shop.</figcaption></figure>
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We have made it to the island of Korčula on the boat named Korčula, and at on our way to the town of Korčula. We have landed in Vela Luka, though. </figcaption></figure>
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Old shipyard.</figcaption></figure>
Vela Luka is cute.</figcaption></figure>
This succulent looks like roses growing out of a wall. </figcaption></figure>
Great view as we climbed out of town.</figcaption></figure>
We visited a cave, Vela Spila, where pre-historic human remains were found! They gave us hard hats. </figcaption></figure>
I guess we should go this way even though it is not paved.</figcaption></figure>
Really beautiful coves on the remote side of the island. </figcaption></figure>
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We keep seeing unexpected bike infrastructure. Like this is a "bike route" so they leave these repair stands in the middle of nowhere that rust into disfunction.</figcaption></figure>
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We are racing to get to the campsite before it closed.</figcaption></figure>
Phew. The host was still there. </figcaption></figure>
Then we had a sunset swim. This was so great. </figcaption></figure>
Toby the cat watches us cook dinner. He got a tuna treat.</figcaption></figure>
I present Tuna Ramen. Fit for a cat king.</figcaption></figure>

Day 36 - Bat Exposure Therapy - Dračevo, Bosnia & Hercegovina to Ravno, Bosnia & Hercegovina

2026-07-26T14:41:00-07:00

July 26, 2026 - biked 47 km (29 mi) - biked 1447 km (899 mi) total
Today we did the exciting part of the Ćiro Trail! Hercegovina is definitely a different vibe from the rest of the trip; much more remote and abandoned feeling. We spent the morning figuring out where we could get any potable water on a Sunday. Stores are closed and there are no more public taps like there were earlier on the trip. We knocked on the house next to a closed store and a confused woman let us fill up our water on the side of her house.
The old rail grade is now just rough gravel, but it travels through very beautiful terrain and has tunnels and bridges. Gravel is a harsh sword; no cars but so bumpy. Thankfully this was at least not steep either, as it used to be a train. This was a long enough day, though that I have promised Sarah no more gravel the rest of the trip.
It's a little sad all the towns we passed through that used to have stations. The rail line closed in 1975. I stopped to look at a weird truck and this guy came out to chat with me. His name was Milanko and he was 71 and he said he was born here and when he was a kid the train was still in service. All these towns had people working on things related to the train. There used to be 700 kids in the school in town. And now it's just two retirees. He said he worked as a machinist in Sweden for 30 years, then moved back to retire. I hope one day to feel the draw so strong to a place that you would return to it in quiet decline, but I don't know how to have such strong feelings about place. It is the sort of thing that culture tells us is honorable, but I'm still working on understanding.
He says a few bicyclists each day ride by. That's probably small consolation compared to a full train of yesteryear. I hope some more folks get to chat him up, though. </iframe>
Not sure what else used to be in this direction.</figcaption></figure>
Thus far Hercegovina has not been a land of water. Nor markets. A woman let us use a tap on the side of her house. Unclear if she liked the experience. She wouldn’t accept any money but we gave her an animal riding a bike. She can give it to her favorite grandchild. </figcaption></figure>
Beginning of the gravel section of the Ćiro Trail! Today we discovered deflating our tires slightly. Very cush. </figcaption></figure>
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The countryside and thumb is beautiful.</figcaption></figure>
It turns out there are 10 tunnels on this trail! It also turns out Sarah is terrified of bats! We have to bike under the bats hanging on the top of each tunnel.</figcaption></figure>
I snuck back on foot to photograph some bats. They huddle in clumps on the ceiling.</figcaption></figure>
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This is the second huge spider that has attached itself to my bike.</figcaption></figure>
Sarah took deep breaths and turned on her headlamp before clutching the handlebars and pedaling for her life. </figcaption></figure>
Sarah survives more bats. </figcaption></figure>
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We said we were going to eat lunch after the longest tunnel so we wouldn't be stressing out about all the bats still ahead, but then we were hungry and forgot about bats for a while.</figcaption></figure>
One big bridge on the trail. This one was designed by Gustav Eiffel! The second bridge of his we have seen on this trip!</figcaption></figure>
The bridge is terrifying with loose planks.</figcaption></figure>
Abandoned station that Sarah helped demolish by removing two bricks.</figcaption></figure>
Abandoned car by abandoned train station. </figcaption></figure>
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Really did not expect to find anyone else on the trail, least of all two minivans from Poland.</figcaption></figure>
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The old railroad was really narrow gauge. </figcaption></figure>
The only tap we found on the route was at this cemetery and it tasted horrible so we did not drink it. Apparently it is custom to wash your hands after leaving a graveyard which is why this tap is here. </figcaption></figure>
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Sarah finally got an action shot of me. </figcaption></figure>
Sarah rightfully demands we take paved roads for the second half. Just not this motorway. The rest of the trail had been paved into a local road. </figcaption></figure>
This is the machine that got me talking to Milanko. </figcaption></figure>
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This valley near Trnčina is gorgeous. Might be my favorite views on the trip. </figcaption></figure>
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Velja Meða. Damn this valley is gorgeous. The graveyard here has the best view. </figcaption></figure>
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Also possibly the most dangerous part of the trip? We did not leave the trail due to the possibility of remaining land mines. Although the terrain here was incredibly steep, and you would have a hard time exploring.</figcaption></figure>
A beautiful quiet paved road on this valley for a whole afternoon.</figcaption></figure>
Cars are gone. Sun is gone. Hair is free. </figcaption></figure>
Made it. </figcaption></figure>
Here's our hotel! It was a train station on the Čiro trail. </figcaption></figure>
View from the window. The mountains are getting epic.</figcaption></figure>
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This was a huge good meal at the Ravno Station. We ate every last morsel, including a whole slice of raw red onion. </figcaption></figure>

Day 32 - No Banana - Split, Croatia

2026-07-25T11:52:44.963275635-07:00

July 22, 2026 - biked 0 km (0 mi) - biked 1287 km (800 mi) total
We actually eat bananas all the time. And buy single tomatoes to make sandwiches in which we consume so much cheese and bread. On top of all that we fuel ourselves with so many cookies.
But on our rest days we eat out. Split delivered a really great day.
David and I split up for a few hours while I did laundry, drank a macchiato and journaled. </figcaption></figure>
David went to a no-regrets tourist trap that has been around since the early 1900s. </figcaption></figure>
Met up for lunch to eat Jianbing. So good! </figcaption></figure>
Kiwi sweet thing called ‘Magic Snow’ which makes me think of dandruff. But I liked it. </figcaption></figure>
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A local famous artist named Stipe Nobilo who spent his entire life just working on one piece essentially. </figcaption></figure>
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A hallway or a street? </figcaption></figure>
A stolen sphinx from Egypt just out in the open. </figcaption></figure>
Diocletian's Palace Dioklecijanova palača</figcaption></figure>
Split-where Europe goes to vacation </figcaption></figure>
Where we go to vacation </figcaption></figure>
If you touch Gregory of Nin Statue’s big toe it’s supposed to bring you good luck….</figcaption></figure>
But what if you touch your whole foot? </figcaption></figure>
So many stairs </figcaption></figure>
Food from a cartoon Fife! </figcaption></figure>
David ordered an entire bass. </figcaption></figure>
A rehearsal in public square. </figcaption></figure>
Split is a great city and we wish could stay longer but we have a ferry to catch the next day. </figcaption></figure>

Day 31 - All train stations in Croatia seem abandoned - Prosika, Croatia to Split, Croatia

2026-07-25T00:55:03.846681769-07:00

July 21, 2026 - biked 56 km (35 mi), train'd 70 km (44 mi) - biked 1287 km (800 mi) total
Our goal today is to bike into Šibenik, then take the train to Split to skip ahead and not have to do the very busy roads into Split, then have a rest day tomorrow! </iframe> </iframe>
Woke up with a huge ass spider on my bike. </figcaption></figure>
GPS looking out behind us today as we are to ride the D8. </figcaption></figure>
First evidence Split is real.</figcaption></figure>
I again foolishly decided to take a gravel shortcut. Has a nice town view, though.</figcaption></figure>
After walking our bikes again up a steep rocky road, it vanishes into the sea. We will have to find another way.</figcaption></figure>
We routed around through a walking path in an olive grove and would have come out here. Then a man literally rode his bike out of the sea to greet us and said the rest of the way was shallow and we should bike in the water. We walked our bikes on the seagrass on the shore instead. </figcaption></figure>
Starting to see some roadside fruit stands. Lubenice continues to be our favorite fruit.</figcaption></figure>
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Continuing the great fight against the scourge of swimwear. </figcaption></figure>
Water stop in Vodice was at a market! We got grapes.</figcaption></figure>
Also starting to see more roadside shrines.</figcaption></figure>
Another gravel road. This was the official EuroVelo 8 so was possible. </figcaption></figure>
A last little section on the hated D8 over this bridge. </figcaption></figure>
But it had a great view!</figcaption></figure>
Sarah just went for it. I was too scared after being run off the road twice yesterday, and walked on the utility sidewalk.</figcaption></figure>
Sometimes you get to ride in the gutter. The alternative is worse. </figcaption></figure>
Šibenik is cute hill town!</figcaption></figure>
This station is abandoned. No trains, people, or any building not converted in graffiti or abandoned construction scaffolding.</figcaption></figure>
We aren't allowed to wheel our bikes on the train, so we have to bag them. Mine is so big I have to take my front fork out and strap it to the side.</figcaption></figure>
But somehow a train appears! We rush to load our bags. </figcaption></figure>
Then rush to load our bikes. </figcaption></figure>
Then negotiate with the conductor to let our bagged bikes on as "oversize luggage" and we're off. In the future, if you're taking the train from Šhibenik to Perković, you'll have to bag your bike, and even then you'll need to argue about it.</figcaption></figure>
Turns out there was one guy in the abandoned station. </figcaption></figure>
This guy is cranking the crossing gates by hand.</figcaption></figure>
Back drivers cab.</figcaption></figure>
Turns out it has a little kitchen!</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
</figure>
We have one transfer. </figcaption></figure>
New train is nicer.</figcaption></figure>
Split in the distance. Epic hill views on the way. Second most beautiful train we've taken. Definitely slowest.</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
</figure>
The train station in Split, the second biggest city in Croatia, also looks abandoned. </figcaption></figure>
In Split, sidewalks are just for parking.</figcaption></figure>
We get to a cute rental apartment. </figcaption></figure>
In Europe, you do not need stair guards. </figcaption></figure>
With a balcony view!</figcaption></figure>
We finally opened our Istrian wine and made a pasta dinner.</figcaption></figure>

Day 30 - Zadar, Croatia to Prosika, Croatia

2026-07-24T13:27:55.678814458-07:00

July 20, 2026 - biked 55 km (34 mi) - biked 1232 km (765 mi) total
We wake up without our normal 7:30 or 8am alarm because we had a late night and want to sleep. But you can never sleep in late when it gets blazing hot first thing in the morning.
Plus gravel miles should be counted differently. So tough on our road bikes. </iframe>
Breakfast on the beach in our pjs. </figcaption></figure>
When swimming yesterday, something pricked me in the water. I pried most of it out but I needed to do surgery. </figcaption></figure>
Kids jumping off ruins in the water. </figcaption></figure>
Rescued a turtle </figcaption></figure>
Too many cars so gravel it is </figcaption></figure>
Steel gravel roads to walk up. Not my favorite. I miss my mountain bike </figcaption></figure>
David’s always waiting for me. </figcaption></figure>
We arrived in town and needed food immediately. </figcaption></figure>
Meat! </figcaption></figure>
Another cool water fountain. </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Weird camp we passed by </figcaption></figure>
This is gravel I can ride. </figcaption></figure>
Set up camp first then swim </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Rice, beans, tuna and paprika chips </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Ended with two Croatian beers that I didn’t like but David liked this one. </figcaption></figure>
Drinks I wish we had again. So reviving! </figcaption></figure>

Day 29 - Seven Hour World Cup Ferry - Cres, Croatia to Zadar, Croatia

2026-07-23T04:41:51.385290874-07:00

July 19, 2026 - biked 65 km (41 mi), ferry'd 100 km (62 mi) - biked 1177 km (731 mi) total
Finishing up our first island out of 1,244 islands total in Croatia! We're using a long ferry ride at the end to get a skip further south down the extra long gorgeous coast of Croatia.
We biked all day and then at 4:30 caught a 7+hour ferry to Zadar. The final World Cup game between Spain and Argentina started at 9pm. Sarah asked one of the guys if they would air the game but he shook his head no. We weren’t gonna get off the ferry until 10:30 so Sarah would miss most of the game. Yet, Croatia being a soccer nation and maybe something missed in translation, but at 8pm the TVs turned on to capture the pre-game action. We were able to see the first half at least.
The rest we saw through bar windows as we biked to our campsite, arriving at 11:15pm. Sarah was able to catch the overtime from a laptop from a friendly neighbor, but opted for a shower which made her miss the Spanish goal for the win.
Long day, but not as long as the faces of the Argentinian fans. </iframe> </iframe>
Starting out the day!</figcaption></figure>
Lots of cute small boats on the way into Cres. </figcaption></figure>
Cres is one of those harbor towns with a ton of restaurants. This would have been more of a zoo to bike through midday.</figcaption></figure>
Rolling hills on the island of Cres. Very arid. </figcaption></figure>
The wine tasting told us the beach in Lubenice was amazing. But we had no time and it was a giant hill to get there and back. Lubenice means watermelon, so I assume this was a delicious beach. </figcaption></figure>
Sarah keeps climbing. </figcaption></figure>
We had an emergency lunch at this tiny church. Everyone was hangry.</figcaption></figure>
But the sandos were good. </figcaption></figure>
Lunch bike. </figcaption></figure>
We feel much better. It seemed every named place on the map on this island was just a church. All identical with two bells. Imagine hearing the bells in the olden times. They all still had service one day a week.</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Bombing down the hill towards Lošinj, the next island over a small bridge. </figcaption></figure>
Water break in the town of Osor. </figcaption></figure>
Osor cat. </figcaption></figure>
There was a small cathedral here with a string concert practice. They said the actual performance was tomorrow. There were all these TV trucks and cameras setup; it'll be on TV!</figcaption></figure>
We went swimming. This is the only photographic evidence. </figcaption></figure>
Leaving Osor. </figcaption></figure>
Climbing again </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Almost to our destination there was an old military base. Is it illegal to photograph a "no photography" sign?</figcaption></figure>
The end. Mali Lošinj. </figcaption></figure>
Another cute harbor town. But we were in a rush we had to get the one ferry a day from here to the mainland. But we couldn't find a ticket office. Turns out it closes at 1pm even though the last ferry is at 430pm. </figcaption></figure>
Prepare to spend seven hours on this ferry to Zadar. </figcaption></figure>
The pope was on this boat?</figcaption></figure>
Bobby was not there.</figcaption></figure>
The salon looks like this. </figcaption></figure>
Very intimate sitting couches. </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Always eat</figcaption></figure>
Communication board. </figcaption></figure>
There were five? intermediate stops on the ferry. Not pictured, but the whole nose of the boat lifted up!</figcaption></figure>
Flow state </figcaption></figure>
Is that another island over there? </figcaption></figure>
These people were waving vigorously. </figcaption></figure>
Incredible ferry sunsets. </figcaption></figure>
Flow state. </figcaption></figure>
Sarah pretending to take a selfie but really we are lusting after this shrimp print resort set.</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
What good luck, we were trapped on a ferry for seven hours during the world cup final and they put it on. Sarah was ecstatic. David was excited to see Tom Cruise. </figcaption></figure>
This was not used but I can only imagine how fun it makes any emergency.</figcaption></figure>
Some sailors wore polo shirts, some wore striped shirts. We're not sure who were in charge.</figcaption></figure>
Gotta bike 6 km more tonight...</figcaption></figure>
Through a sketchy oil tanker port.</figcaption></figure>
The campsite was full? Idk the guy just told us to set up our tent kinda on the path. But we were 10 m from the sea!</figcaption></figure>

Day 21 - Birthday Day - Ljubljana, Slovenia

2026-07-23T03:53:08.182661206-07:00

July 11, 2026 - biked 0 km (0 mi) - biked 932 km (579 mi) total
I ended this last decade biking and I’ll start this new decade doing the same. What can be better than doing what you love with the people you love? I’m grateful.
I chose to bike along the Mediterranean because I wanted to evoke the same connection to water I did when biked along the Pacific Ocean in my early 30’s. It doesn’t hurt that the Mediterranean Sea has the perfect water temperature.
I wanted to do this epic bike trip to prove that 40 isn’t too old to do epic physical challenges. I loved turning 10, 20 and especially 30, but forty is such a big number in my mind.
I witnessed a tragic 40th birthday party as a child. My uncle turned forty with black balloons, black cake and dark Over the Hill banners everywhere. Maybe there was a skeleton picture somewhere over the hill.
It was a surprise birthday party from his fellow teachers. But if you knew my uncle at all, you would know he hates any sort of attention, let alone this kind. He looked miserable and the dark decor shook me as a child. I thought, if I ever get to 40, that means I’m really old, one foot in the grave.
Well my big anticipated day arrived and it was filled with things and people I love. And most importantly it wasn’t macabre.
I woke up to breakfast in bed, a family tradition. I was offered eight different pastries, and garlic, onion and spinach egg scramble complete with a procured cappuccino.
At 11ish we all headed down to see the Ljubljana wind orchestra play a free concert under the London Plane trees. A flea market nearby sparked my interest and I found a simple silver ring as a spontaneous birthday present to myself.
After the concert, we headed to our reservation for wine tasting. We found ourselves pretty tipsy as we aren’t used to much day drinking, but my mom and Peter saved the day as they ordered bread and cheese for the table.
Day drinking requires a scheduled nap time. After the nap, I chatted with some siblings and then caught a 45 minute river boat ride. The boat road through the river in Ljubljana and had some historical information but mostly just light jazz music.
The boat floated in at dinner time and we strolled to our dinner reservations at an Indian restaurant we saw when we went wine tasting.
Conversation was light as we ate such spice-rich food, further confirming the best food in the world comes from places other than Europe, with Italy as the exception.
I ended the day with a nice bathtub soak feeling so grateful for all the birthday texts, videos of happy birthday songs, and birthday cards. Perhaps this will be my best decade yet.
Good morning delivery with the traditional breakfast in bed. </figcaption></figure>
Cappuccino which says I’m not awake until I’ve drunk my coffee. </figcaption></figure>
Wind orchestra </figcaption></figure>
Wine and chat </figcaption></figure>
So much cheese! </figcaption></figure>
We are tipsy </figcaption></figure>
Something interesting I’m sure </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Indian restaurant where I ordered the butter chicken dish.</figcaption></figure>
I want to embrace a car free life for now. Should this Vespa I saw be my new mid-life vehicle? She’s a cutie! </figcaption></figure>

Gear Interlude - Inside The Bikers Tent with James Lipton

2026-07-22T02:51:06.226994881-07:00

You've seen the outside tens of times, and everyone is clamoring to know: what's inside the tent? Your answers lie within this special Gear Interlude - Tent Edition.
We always setup the tent and sleeping stuff first thing when we arrive at camp, so it's done and we can relax. In general, we've slept ok on this trip. Our gear is comfy, but campsites can be loud.
Enjoy the tour of our tent life!
Behold: The Zpacks Duplex Zip with Freestanding Pole Kit.</figcaption></figure>
Fits in Sarah's "tent stuff" pannier nice and easy. Everything is very light but kinda bulky.</figcaption></figure>
There are two zippered vestibules on each side that you can stake out. It's so hot at night, we usually roll up both doors though. Or just use one for visual privacy. There's a semicircle screen door on each side that is kind of annoying to zip since the zipper is the top of the arc, so there's no tension and you need both hands. Which can be annoying if you need a midnight pee. And can be extra stressful when you try to close it quickly before any bugs sneak in. </figcaption></figure>
Inside we have our two backpacking sleeping pads: Sarah has a Therm-a-Rest NeoAir and David an Exped Ultra 6.5R. I brought a little Exped air pump to fill my pad; it is nice but also very annoying sounding, so I don't use it if we arrive late. Sarah continues her lung workout. If we're feeling cozy we also have pad coupler straps that you loop in a figure eight to keep the pads next to each other. This is comfy, but we don't need it most nights.</figcaption></figure>
An inflatable pillow each: Sarah has a Nemo Fillo Elite, David has a Exped Mega Pillow. I do not like the felt fabric on my pillow, so I use a bandana as a cooler pillowcase that can be washed.</figcaption></figure>
We both brought sleep masks and ear plugs. Many of the campsites have been near resorts that have late concerts or there are French boys yelling late into the night. Also almost all campsites have street lights, so eye masks really help. I have some cheap foam ear plugs but I keep losing and finding them again. Before we put on our eye masks we always do a thorough bug check. Nobody wants to go to sleep with a mosquito. </figcaption></figure>
Our "sleeping bags" are just silk bag liners since it's so hot. Sarah has a Cocoon, David has a Western Mountaineering silk bag liner. A typical _low_ on this trip has been 75 F or 23 C. I mostly like it as a washable sheet over the pad fabric.</figcaption></figure>
As the one "low temp" backup, we have an old single lightweight summer sleeping bag we use as a duvet over both of us. It's a rectangular bag that you can unzip into a big square. It's light fleece on the inside. We've used this three nights thus far, and every one of those nights someone ends up stealing all the covers.</figcaption></figure>
Sometimes in the morning condensation form on the underside of the tent or ground sheet, so we flop it on its side to dry out. I also try to give the tent a good shake out with one door open before we roll it up. I am not a "tent stuffer"; close all the zippers, fold it in fourths hotdog-style, then roll it from one end and it goes right in the stuff sack. </figcaption></figure>

Day 28 - Island Style - Pazin, Croatia to Cres, Croatia

2026-07-19T10:56:36.570343677-07:00

July 18, 2026 - biked 68 km (42 mi), ferry'd 6.2 km (3.9 mi) - biked 1111 km (691 mi) total
Little bit of a rush today; we've got a ferry to catch! Instead of doing the main EuroVelo 8, we're going to do Croatia by island so we get scenic views and don't have to deal with as much traffic. So we cut straight across the Istrian Peninsula to the ferry to the island of Cres.
We some wonderful country backroads on the way, then some grueling highway shoulder hills with epic views. We stopped for water in a town with a church that has a relief of "St. George" but actually it was an old Roman god. They were so excited to find it they built a church there.
We had to bust for the ferry, though, and rolled right on and then it immediately left. We were both pooped but had to rush.
The island provided no relief as it was another 10 km of relentless uphill up to 500 m, then another 10 km right back down again. It did provide spectacular views. At the top was a saddle where you get to look out over the mainland on one side then the peninsula on the other. Truly a highlight. Then every few turns on the way down revealed new island views. I recommend traversing Cres for the views at some point.
I was hoping to set up camp, then walk into the town of Cres and we could get our first restaurant meal of Croatia. We went to Camping Kovačine and it was the most mega camping resort we have been to yet. Not like we had much of a camping choice, it was the only one on that part of the island. There are 500 camp pitches and one million kids on scooters and a live band and grilling outside restaurant. And it's a 10 min bike outside of the real town. So we listened to the guitarist play Radiohead and some Italian song everyone knew the words to and ate čevapčići and grilled veggies and watched the sunset. </iframe> </iframe>
I love signing up for bread delivery in the morning.</figcaption></figure>
Idyllic rural roads. </figcaption></figure>
That's the coast range of the Istrian Peninsula we have to go around. </figcaption></figure>
Dominated by the Dominator 76. </figcaption></figure>
Gabs eats lunch: tomato, cheese, lettuce, apple sando. </figcaption></figure>
Still bombing towards the ferry.</figcaption></figure>
Our climb to the ferry begins. </figcaption></figure>
Halfway up to the ferry at St. George's church. </figcaption></figure>
Here he is. Silvanus, the Illyrian-Roman god or St. George?</figcaption></figure>
Walking the church grounds. </figcaption></figure>
Lots of stuff inside.</figcaption></figure>
Still climbing to the ferry. </figcaption></figure>
Still climbing to the ferry. </figcaption></figure>
Now we crash down right on top of the ferry. Top speed: 51 km/hr. </figcaption></figure>
How fast can you buy a ticket when the ferry leaves in 5 min?</figcaption></figure>
Ferry meets ferry.</figcaption></figure>
About to begin island life.</figcaption></figure>
Our first act on the island: NA radler. Incredible. And chocolate biscuits. Very sophisticated tasting.</figcaption></figure>
Immediately climbing in the stagnant hot air from the ferry. </figcaption></figure>
Beetle friend.</figcaption></figure>
Found these photos from 1986 on the side of the road.</figcaption></figure>
Still climbing. </figcaption></figure>
Praise be we are done with 10 km of all uphill with zero breaks.</figcaption></figure>
Views were worth it.</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
</figure>
Also this is SHEEP ISLAND. </figcaption></figure>
This cute church has an incredible view. I can't show it to you, but rest assured it is incredible. </figcaption></figure>
Bombing into the town of Cres. </figcaption></figure>
We are excited to be here. </figcaption></figure>
One million scooter children next left.</figcaption></figure>
I think they placed the camp outside the town just so the sun will set over the water. Also maybe property taxes.</figcaption></figure>
Post swim pic and pre sunset pic. </figcaption></figure>
My dinner, at least. Čevapčići. </figcaption></figure>

Day 27 - Wine before the hills - Triban, Croatia to Pazin, Croatia

2026-07-19T08:13:26.930416894-07:00

July 17, 2026 - biked 57 km (35 mi) - biked 1043 km (648 mi) total
We had a rocky start literally. This country’s foundation is hard soil mixed with rocks.
For lunch, we met Ole from Germany who had lunch with us on the side of the Paranzana trail.
We diverted from the trail to make it across the Isteria peninsula to catch a ferry so we can do some island hopping.
In France, we never happened upon a winery but today we did! So in the name of celebrating my birthday week, we stopped for a wine sampling. It was lovely and we discovered Croatian accents sound a lot like Russian accents. We bought a bottle of red wine and headed to our campsite still 15 miles away. Little did we know we would encounter the worst road conditions ever. With 20% grade we climbed 500 m or about 1500 feet. We literally climbed, not biked. It was impossible because of the huge rocks. No car could even make it up.
We took turns pushing each other’s bikes up since it took two of us to tackle the elevation and navigate the rocks. It was hard enough to just hike it.
We kind of took a wrong turn and got some bad advice but we struggled through because what else can you do.
I can push through and still be grumpy. As it was getting darker, last dinner time and we still had miles to bike, we biked past small house farms. They were still working with a tractor or a hoe or feeding the chickens. Farmers work hard. A lot harder than myself.
We learned some lessons but never any regrets with stopping spontaneously for a Croatian wine tasting.
Wine before hills, in case the hills kill (you). Hill after wine then you can dine, is perhaps better. </iframe>
That’s my train guy</figcaption></figure>
Rocky start…little did we know what was ahead. </figcaption></figure>
It rained on us and Gabs got a shower</figcaption></figure>
Trains love tunnels and so do we! </figcaption></figure>
Selfie with the views and we happen to be matchy matchy today </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
</figure>
Hope all of us get consumed by plants someday. </figcaption></figure>
We met Ole from Germany! </figcaption></figure>
We had this drink that David says tastes like Dr. Pepper. Big prune taste. </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Who is big Joe? </figcaption></figure>
Wine time! </figcaption></figure>
That’s the shot! </figcaption></figure>
Cute cat number two</figcaption></figure>
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Back on the road. First picture after wine tasting. </figcaption></figure>
Killer road hill </figcaption></figure>
Absolutely brutal </figcaption></figure>
I’m beat. The road has won. </figcaption></figure>
Our bikes had some options about the road too</figcaption></figure>
Stopping for a nice view of Istria Peninsula </figcaption></figure>
Still biking but see the farm lands! </figcaption></figure>
Really cool caves</figcaption></figure>
Still biking </figcaption></figure>
Our campsite (the next morning)</figcaption></figure>

Day 26 - Swimming is always worth it - Koper, Slovenia to Triban, Croatia

2026-07-18T02:02:52.880358521-07:00

July 16, 2026 - biked 44 km (27 mi), train'd 151 km (94 mi) - biked 986 km (613 mi) total
We had a big send off from Carol and Peter. A big breakfast with a macchiato, an assist with our bike bags. After we left, Peter ran to the train station because I had forgotten my water bottles. I hadn’t even noticed yet.
Finally on the train to Koper, back to the sea, we had to buy tickets for our bikes for only 3€ each. She asked if they were electric and I said “I wish.”
This begs the question, with the mainstream use of e-bikes, do we get more street cred for not using them or are we just foolish?
We feel proud of our work but we have thought multiple times of selling both our bikes and buying a Vespa.
We don’t have e-bikes but we have parents who took back about 17 pounds of stuff we brought and realized we don’t need. Maybe we will be more speedy.
We got rid of the following:
-David’s puffy and Carhartt pants -two black penguin shirts (we only wore once; too hot) -rain gear (only rained once) -Sarah’s dress, two shirts, one pair of shorts -watercolor and watercolor paper (apparently we have no downtime) -two decks of cards (same reason as above) -extra journal (we blog instead) -fuel canisters adapter (we have found other cans…so far) -bike rack straps -Sarah’s bike light (I can use my headlamp) -extra moldy headlamp we found in the tent (always do a test trip beforehand... we clearly didn’t) -two metal cups -two coozies -yellow dish towel (everything is so dry here) -soap from Marseille -EuroVelo 8 overview booklet (useless, don’t buy) -two small backpacks for city walking
Things we procured during our rest week:
-Half a sponge -few feet of water electrical tape courtesy of my sister, bro-in-law and my mom bringing it! -yellow purse bag for David -new lighter hat for David -eating utensils for David -two pairs of socks for Sarah
Unfortunately we didn’t get far today. I just happened to start my period on the first day back on the road and my energy was sapped. Still it was nice to be reunited with the Mediterranean Sea. We swam right when we saw it.
Our planned campsite fell through but we asked someone in this small town where to stay and she said she knew the hostel owner. 10 minutes later she opened up the hostel for us. </iframe>
Bye Airbnb hallway</figcaption></figure>
Notice what’s missing on my bike???</figcaption></figure>
Bye Carol and Peter</figcaption></figure>
Lunch with the sea</figcaption></figure>
The tiniest bit of shade. Eat then swim. Just like it should be. </figcaption></figure>
Sorry. </figcaption></figure>
David and the sea once again </figcaption></figure>
Another old railway grade trail that is gloriously carless</figcaption></figure>
Not doing the whole thing unfortunately </figcaption></figure>
Lots of ‘tunnel air conditioning time’. It is nice and cold in them.</figcaption></figure>
We are in Croatia! Biked across a total of 4 boarder crossings.</figcaption></figure>
Axolotls are trending everywhere </figcaption></figure>
Slovenia is on the other side</figcaption></figure>
What a grocery store looks like in Croatia. </figcaption></figure>
Croatia has some cute kitties!</figcaption></figure>
The hostel </figcaption></figure>
Me eating again. We had my dads left over canned lentils and rice </figcaption></figure>
Seasoned with chips </figcaption></figure>
Using the sponge for the first time. Luxury. </figcaption></figure>
Gabs wanted the top bunk. </figcaption></figure>
Female owned hostel that we had entirely to ourselves, but we only used one bed. I guess we are used to tent life. </figcaption></figure>

Day 20-25 - Rest Week - Ljubljana, Slovenia

2026-07-16T02:43:25.177719664-07:00

July 10-15, 2026 - biked 10 km (6.3 mi), train'd 241 km (150 mi) - biked 942 km (586 mi) total
We took time off-bike and off-blog to rest for 6 days. After biking over 590 mi or 943 km in over 4 weeks, we needed it.
David’s parents got everyone an Airbnb and we were gifted to sleep in the best room in the house equipped with not only a chandelier above the bed but also a rain shower and bathtub. We were also gifted a two hour long couples massage which completely relaxed us to the point where we had no energy to walk around. Massages are our kryptonite.
It felt weird to not bike, but we filled our time up just right.
I had a great birthday, more to come later.
We did the typical tourist things-visit the castle on top of the hill, go on a ‘free’ guided tour, and visit a vending machine with raw milk.
With David’s excellent navigation via train line hopping, we were able to visit Lake Bled and Most na Soči. A total of 7 trains for over 5 hours with stunning mountain and river views and through quaint alpine towns for only 16€. Our dear Portland friend, Ali, was also able to join and she delightfully called herself the 7th wheel. Everyone needs a 7th wheel.
If David was writing this post he would probably mention the 6 km tunnel and the train car that worked like a ferry bringing cars with people in them across a stretch of non-road terrain. Only one person has beat the train using the roads, but he was going 100 kph.
We did one bike ride the whole week to the outdoor sports store Decathlon to get some stove fuel and David got a new hat.
Tomorrow we will be back on the bike and if the massage and family taught us anything is that we need to stretch more and hire our parents as our official pit stop team.
Bonus Slovenia Facts</h2>

Population 2 million (Oregon is around 4 million) </li>

Bears are so common they eat them (At least according to the free tour guide? We saw no bear on any menu.) </li>

Napoleon is beloved by the Slovenians because he allowed them to speak their own language for the 4 years he reigned, unlike the Austro-Hungarian empire </li>

Separated from Yugoslavia in 1991 and became apart of the EU in 2004 </li> </ul>
-make white, red and orange wine
-Ljubljana won the greenest capital in the EU ten years ago
**highly recommend a visit! </iframe>
Strangely, our first dinner was ramen</figcaption></figure>
Massage bed</figcaption></figure>
Gabs is resting too</figcaption></figure>
Dragon water fountain. There are dragons everywhere.</figcaption></figure>
Slovenians love when you can speak a little of their language since they weren’t able to speak it for so many years. </figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Tourists being tourists </figcaption></figure>
Watched the Spain vs. Belgium game with Spaniards and Belgiums. We finally did it right. </figcaption></figure>
Dragon bridge. The dragon's tail did not wag.</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Finally wore our penguin shirts in the cooler Slovenian forest weather. Black is just not a good color on the Mediterranean during a heat wave. </figcaption></figure>
Raw milk vending machine </figcaption></figure>
In the glorious communist future, we will chainsaw nude.</figcaption></figure>
Napoleon needs a chin rub as it’s the only statue of him in the world </figcaption></figure>
Birthday breakfast with an egg scramble made by my mom, cappuccino brought by my dad and pastries from Carol. </figcaption></figure>
Not sure who this guy is</figcaption></figure>
On a boat</figcaption></figure>
Ali just arrived that day</figcaption></figure>
Getting ready for our first of two swims in Lake Bled</figcaption></figure>
David eating the worst pizza of his life…err this trip. </figcaption></figure>
"Surely is the Most na Soči town I've ever been in."</figcaption></figure>
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Hike viewpoint above Most na Soči</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
David swam three times this day! So proud! </figcaption></figure>
Train car ‘ferry’</figcaption></figure>
Car ferry train lets you open the windows</figcaption></figure>
Just before a sign just missed Ali's head. Always face forward when sticking your head out of the train.</figcaption></figure>
</figure>
Laško pronounced Lashko</figcaption></figure>
Mom and dad are off to Venice at a reasonable hour</figcaption></figure>

Pizza Review: Le Bar Les Bois Flottés de Carmargue, Salin-de-Giraud, France

2026-07-11T12:31:35.725492473-07:00

Originally from 4 July 2026
After we spent all day riding on a sandy berm out in the ocean</a>, we rolled into our campsite Les Bois Flottés de Carmargue</a> and we were hungry. When we checked in, they mentioned it was pizza night at the bar, so we wandered over there to eat.
Pizzas Ordered: Linda Rosa, Carmarguez
Absolute chaos here. A co-bachelor/bachelorette party, flies everywhere, bright pink drinks, somehow they had an IPA, a DJ, a server wandering around the whole night with a cold pizza yelling Hernando trying to deliver an order. Pizza night is obviously when you pull out all the stops. And it was July 4th, so we felt we really needed pizza and beer.
Regretfully I did not photograph the menu on a chalkboard. We ordered the Linda Rosa, which listed cheese, tomato, mushrooms, parmesan. And The Carmarguez which listed cheese, tomato, merguez</a>, parmesan. The Dutch woman next to us also ordered the Linda Rosa before us and was surprised to learn it comes with ham. Apparently ham is so good you don't have to list it on the menu. So Sarah went up and made sure they left off the ham. That seemed to go well, but then to our surprise it came out with only ham. After a lot of back and forth, it is eventually revealed that the kitchen misinterpreted "no ham" to mean "just ham". I guess they wrote the menu. Eventually somehow we got just a plain cheese pizza and the Carmarguez. Thankfully service is not traditionally score-driving.
"Carmarguez" appears to be a portmanteau of "Carmargue", in the name of the town, and "merguez" the meat.
Executive Summary</h2>
Cheese</th> Dough</th> Sauce</th> Toppings</th> Overall</th></tr></thead>

3.0</td> 2.0</td> 2.5</td> 4.5</td> 3.0</td></tr> </tbody></table>
Cheese</h2>
I have loved all cheese in Europe. It has an extra "fatty depth" and extra flavor that cheese in the US lacks. Like go out and buy a stick of Darigold and Kerrygold and lick each and tell me how you feel. So I was a little bummed when the cheese on this pizza tasted like the bog standard mozzarella you get on cheap American pizza but with just a hint of that extra fat. Also unclear if there was any parmesan?
3.0 / 5.0 Just above average.
Dough</h2>
Bread here has also been like the cheese, it has a slightly richer flavor. I got a bit of that from the crust going on here. Like it had hints of whole wheat but wasn't whole wheat; a sort of "whole wheat La Croix" of dough. That was overshadowed by a chewy interior, yet almost off-the-scales protractor test: zero flop.
2.0 / 5.0 I didn't like it but I wasn't repulsed.
Sauce</h2>
Merely there. Light, salty, maybe with truffle? It seemed to lack olive oil, which might have elevated this.
2.5 / 5.0 Unremarkable but not detracting.
Toppings</h2>
Stars of the show here. The merguez was incredible. Well into involuntary yum territory. Shone but did not dominate. I want to find this on pizza again.
A Linda Rosa without ham should still have had mushrooms on it, but did not. 🤷‍♂️ I will rate this as a cheese.
4.5 / 5.0 Yum.
Overall</h2>
I really wanted to like this pizza more than I did. It looked good, smelled good, we were hungry as all hell. But it was only ok. Maybe that tells you something when you force ham on people.
3.0 / 5.0
The "Linda Rosa" but actually just cheese?</figcaption></figure>
The Carmarguez.</figcaption></figure>

Day 19 - I'm more of a cave wine kind of gal - Trieste, Italy to Ljubljana, Slovenia

2026-07-10T15:27:03.554303672-07:00

July 9, 2026 - biked 60 km (37 mi), train'd 62 km (39 mi) - biked 932 km (579 mi) total
There is a cliff between Italy and Slovenia. This means there aren't many trains there Italy. The original plan when we planned on skipping Italy was to take the train all the way into Ljubljana, but computers told us that in order to walk on our bikes, it would have required a really early and long day ending in a night train from Austria. I love a train but that is too much train. While researching this, I learned there is a bike trail that follows an old rail grade from Trieste, up that cliff, into Slovenia! So what if we biked that, then took a local train in Slovenia to make it a quick day and be able to meet our parents on time?
That was the plan.
First fun thing of the day, we finally met the owner of the bike shop in Trieste where we stored our bikes in for the night, Dario. He was so incredibly excited to meet us and hear about our trip and seemed very sad to be trapped renting bikes to other people rather than riding them himself. He said his last big trip was from Rome to St. Petersburg during Covid. It took three months. Now who is inspiring whom? He was so pumped to learn that our penguin's name was Gabriel. It's meeting people like this that reminds me that, while travel is fun, it's the people that buckle down and make things happen who are the ones that make the destinations worthwhile.
And we were off! The start of the day in Trieste city was miserable and full of traffic and then straight uphill, but eventually we got to the bike path and it was amazing. Uphill, yes, but very gradual by bike standards. (And apparently not by train standards, which is why it isn't used for that any more.) There were good views, soaring bridges, old tunnels, baby cows, and signs for "wine cave".
We kept seeing signs for "wine cave". And we agreed, if the "wine cave" was right off the trail, we'd stop. As the trail skirted the Slovenian border, we saw all these wooden arrows that said "wine cave" pointing to a rocky path. We leaned up our bikes and head down, across the border taking our first steps into Slovenia. 50 m down, we eventually come upon a picnic table, and as we looked back at the hill there's a hobbit door with a big sign that says "self service free entrance". I open the hobbit door and it is pitch black, so I run back up to get my headlamp. We go inside and there is a big table in a 2 m high cave made of an old sewing machine table with benches on each side. On the table are these two locked aluminum cooking pots that say "wine free", another pot with cups in plastic bags to keep them dry, and a third box with "goat cheese 15€". We drink the cave wine. We have no idea if it's home made or Slovenian or what but it is red and delicious. And then we notice we are surrounded by silent, motionless huge spiders.
I cannot think of a better first few steps into Slovenia.
After two paper cups of cave wine, we sign the logbook outside, chat with some Italians who just hiked in, and get to riding again.
The rest of the trail is chill. We make it to Divača where we plan to take the train. It's a spooky station and eventually I find a ticket machine and we buy two tickets. And then the train is there! It says Ljubljana! We leap on to get moving. And it slowly twists and turns across the hillsides. Eventually the conductor looks at our tickets and tells us the train doesn't go all the way into Ljubljana. There's something wrong today, so there's a bus that will take everyone the second half of the way. But no bikes on the bus, so we have to wait for an hour at the next station for a train that will go all the way. This sucks as we watch everyone get on a coach bus and leave us. At this point we're another 30 km from Ljubljana.
So instead of waiting an hour for the train and another hour on the train, we just bike it. We lost some time initially because Sarah took some convincing. Initially, it's not too fun, as the first half is on the side of a main road with no shoulder, but it is all downhill and we go so fast. It even starts raining on us, big fat drops, the first rain the whole trip. We were thinking about sending our rain gear home, but will this change our mind? Nah, it's warm rain. My phone hates the rain though and refuses to work in any way until it dries out.
Once we get near Ljubljana, things get way nicer. There's cycle paths 15 km out of the city, and we see lots of folks on bikes. Even in town is really chill. Feels like a good city.
We navigate right into our parents open arms, who wait for us outside our Airbnb for the next week. </iframe> </iframe>
An Americano seems to be such an affront to the Italians they make you dilute the espresso yourself.</figcaption></figure>
Just a little sweet treat for breakfast.</figcaption></figure>
Trieste hostel stay </figcaption></figure>
Bike shop owner, Dario, lubes us up.</figcaption></figure>
He took out picture again after he saw Gabs peeking out of the bag. </figcaption></figure>
Italian water fountain uses a foot pedal and provides privacy.</figcaption></figure>
Trieste was traffic. </figcaption></figure>
Beginning of the bike path.</figcaption></figure>
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Bowed out tunnel like we are entering the top half of a keyhole. What are we unlocking? So many things! </figcaption></figure>
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Gab’s buddy? </figcaption></figure>
Old train station.</figcaption></figure>
First "wine cave" sign.</figcaption></figure>
Everywhere it looks like the rocks are shiny is actually spiderwebs.</figcaption></figure>
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Špile means spires. Confused, but we still enter. </figcaption></figure>
Cave wine. </figcaption></figure>
Cave wine.</figcaption></figure>
Gangster spiders</figcaption></figure>
It was empty except for a stale piece of bread. </figcaption></figure>
Oh yeah they also had sparking water.</figcaption></figure>
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The butterflies thought we were flowers. </figcaption></figure>
Means field wedding? </figcaption></figure>
There was also a little free library with children's books. I assume to distract the children while the parents got drunk on cave wine.</figcaption></figure>
I believe this is the border. Italy told us we were leaving, but nothing welcomed into Slovenia.</figcaption></figure>
We were still excited to be in Slovenia.</figcaption></figure>
And the immediately Slovenia was like "trucks will run you off this road". </figcaption></figure>
So we had to take this super steep road instead.</figcaption></figure>
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Roadside shrines. Are we in Japan?</figcaption></figure>
Where we were to take the train from.</figcaption></figure>
Every train has bike hooks. Sometimes we are bad at seeing them for 15 min though.</figcaption></figure>
Then we got dumped into this other station in Logatec with this cool clock, while everyone else got to take a bus.</figcaption></figure>
Storm clouds</figcaption></figure>
Ljubljana suburbs after a rain.</figcaption></figure>
We made it!</figcaption></figure>
Lots of cycle paths.</figcaption></figure>
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Our parents received us.</figcaption></figure>

Day 18 - Buff Arms - Ventimiglia, Italy to Trieste, Italy

2026-07-09T14:22:05.486495304-07:00

July 8, 2026 - biked 2 km (1.2 mi), train'd 692 km (430 mi) - biked 872 km (542 mi) total
I swear this is a bike trip, but we're taking trains again. We are meeting our parents in Ljubljana July 9 and there's not enough time. We had decided at the beginning of the trip to skip biking Italy. This is very sad, but it means another trip we want to bike the whole length. So today was an epic amount of regional trains, so we could roll our bike on. It was kind of stressful because we bought these tickets when we were in Spain and I didn't notice that they had crazy tight transfers until we started. We (and actually quite a few other people) ended up running between the trains and hauling out loaded bikes up and down stairs as quick as we could. Good thing all our bike riding on gravel had strengthened our arms. </iframe> </iframe>
The hills around Ventimiglia were still stunning in the morning.</figcaption></figure>
Sarah got a coffee with traditional coffee plating.</figcaption></figure>
I got orange juice with traditional coffee plating.</figcaption></figure>
For breakfast, the worst food we've had on the trip. Stale, burnt pastries.</figcaption></figure>
Have you ever ridden a bike named Donna and wondered, what if this Donna was Mondo?</figcaption></figure>
Market in Ventimiglia. </figcaption></figure>
Sarah cannot hide her happiness after she purchases cherries.</figcaption></figure>
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Prepare yourself for 10 hours of trains.</figcaption></figure>
Some guy in Montpellier taught us this elevator bike trip.</figcaption></figure>
Someone was in our seat, and it set off a chain of events where that was due to four other people being in the wrong seats.</figcaption></figure>
This is what we look like when we eat peaches. Incredible peaches. </figcaption></figure>
This is what we look like when we eat peaches. Incredible peaches. </figcaption></figure>
One lemon, one pistachio. All chode. </figcaption></figure>
Leg 1 of 4 complete. Preparing for a 5 minute transfer in Milan.</figcaption></figure>
Milano, we barely knew you. </figcaption></figure>
I wish we had more than 30 seconds in Milan because this atrium looked incredible.</figcaption></figure>
Train 2 of 4.</figcaption></figure>
Wonder what this day was like.</figcaption></figure>
No bike racks on Trenord, just buckles.</figcaption></figure>
The Messarunner on Train 3 of 4 after an even tighter 2 minute transfer. Regionale trains have slide in racks. We have learned to run up stairs with our bikes. No photos for obvious reasons.</figcaption></figure>
Bikes on train 4 of 4. </figcaption></figure>
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Gabbs takes a rest.</figcaption></figure>
Sunset entering Trieste.</figcaption></figure>
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We say goodbye to our final train 11 hours later.</figcaption></figure>
More super-yacht stores. What if i have a regular yacht?</figcaption></figure>
Biking to the hostel in Trieste was stressful. It felt like rush hour and no cycle tracks.</figcaption></figure>
The hostel does not allow bikes inside so I hauled all the bags up in one go while Sarah waited with the bikes.</figcaption></figure>
360 view. 8 bags.</figcaption></figure>
The hostel recommended we store our bikes at this bike rental shop a few blocks away.</figcaption></figure>
We got the code to get in after hours and then almost knocked over 30 bikes like dominoes.</figcaption></figure>
View from our dinner table at a burger bar.</figcaption></figure>
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We did not order this, but the "USA Poke Bowl" was on the menu and is absolutely wild. I guess having to deal with Americans tastes like this.</figcaption></figure>
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question-baby or old man</figcaption></figure>
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Day 17 - Tour de France - Marseille, France to Ventimiglia, Italy

2026-07-08T15:14:51.555068544-07:00

July 7, 2026 - biked 50 km (31 mi), train'd 224 km (139 mi) - biked 870 km (541 mi) total
To keep on schedule, today was another half-train-skip day. We had a delightful breakfast with Clara, then biked up a big hill to the train station with a view in Marseille, and hopped on a train to Nice. Our goal for the rest of the day will be to bike out of France to Italy.
This next section, with 1700 ft elevation gain you’d hope the views are worth it. At the midway point we felt betrayed by the route. How can this be sanctioned as the EuroVelo for cyclists like us? I barely passed someone who walked up the hill. The highest grade was 18%.
Apparently you can’t leave by bike France without literally biking the Tour de France. We didn't realize it until the top but the EuroVelo was actually following part of the 2020 Tour de France mountain stage 2!
David always waits for me to catch up and one such point, I huffed, “I’m about ready to chuck all my bags down the hill.” “But not the one with the cookies!” he quickly double checked.
We ate everything remaining, including cheese purchased seven days ago that we hadn’t refrigerated. We feasted just out of Nice, surrounded by mansions with one of the best views in the world and a surprise horse!
At the very top, not only were we rewarded with yacht-scattered ocean views but we got to see deeper into the Alps. Eek!
After several more stops, we finally made our descent. This is the time where I wait for David. David was feeling a little conflicted about taking this really grueling route instead of taking an easier, but more traffic, sea route through Monaco. Monaco seems like such an interesting place, but then we kept seeing more mega-yachts, more helicopters landing on mega-yachts, and noticed there were no cycle paths through the city and he thinks the grueling hills were the better decision.
On a leveling out after a 25mph descent, I just happened to stop in front of probably the fanciest hotels with the richest views. One of the door keepers did the universal sign for drink and I nodded quickly. He gave me water in its rarest form—cold!
Even though we were soon done with the descent, we still had 100m of elevation and some km and boarder crossing to cover before reaching our campsite.
We are in Italy!
I get clumsy when I’m depleted and I refused to blow up my mattress pad before eating dinner. Thankfully, David had a battery powered pump that saved that little bit of energy.
We showered, because we try to at least blend in with general society when off-bike, before stuffing our faces, this time with our first brush with Italian food. </iframe> </iframe>
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Breakfast utility. Must have?</figcaption></figure>
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All boarded up to Nice.</figcaption></figure>
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It was hot when we got out the train.</figcaption></figure>
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Nice shot and Nice shot. </figcaption></figure>
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The climb begins.</figcaption></figure>
Granny gear activated.</figcaption></figure>
We go there. Which was more up.</figcaption></figure>
Literally that high.</figcaption></figure>
Half way up.</figcaption></figure>
We need lunch.</figcaption></figure>
David stuffing his face with chocolate croissants. A horse secretly watches from below.</figcaption></figure>
I gave the horse a bit of cookie. </figcaption></figure>
We finished all our leftovers in one frenzy.</figcaption></figure>
David crushing it.</figcaption></figure>
Count the yachts.</figcaption></figure>
Some castles here are fake. Unclear if this is one of those.</figcaption></figure>
Even the junked out cars are Bentleys.</figcaption></figure>
Most picturesque pickleball court in the world.</figcaption></figure>
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All those hills make sense now. TdF 2020, Stage 2.</figcaption></figure>
View into the Alps from the top!</figcaption></figure>
Monaco from above. Looks rich.</figcaption></figure>
Cold water guys.</figcaption></figure>
Monaco is pretty.</figcaption></figure>
I could quarantine here.</figcaption></figure>
Instagramable. Or at least everyone else was instagramming these steps. </figcaption></figure>
Almost there.</figcaption></figure>
The Italian border.</figcaption></figure>
Italy was mostly tunnels at first.</figcaption></figure>
Ventimiglia is an old Roman town built on a hilltop. It shows.</figcaption></figure>
Camp first, then shower, then eat.</figcaption></figure>
Do you need any bird name ideas? Or perhaps children? </figcaption></figure>
Turns out "megayacht supplies" is a business category.</figcaption></figure>
First pizza without it sliced for me.</figcaption></figure>
Seafood gnocchi.</figcaption></figure>

Day 16 - Here is what we say about - Marseille, France

2026-07-07T15:30:32.537564625-07:00

July 6, 2026 - biked 0 km (0 mi), ferry'd 12 km (7.3 mi) - biked 820 km (509 mi) total
Today was a rest day but we still managed to hike/walk 9+ miles.
My housemates’ friend, Clara, was able to host us last minute as her roommate just left on holiday. We stayed in a lovely flat with steep stairs. Our bikes fit snuggled next to the bed so its owners can rest without worry. While camping, the bikes can be free range but in the big cities we like them tucked in close.
Mishap</h2>
When traveling, even with all the novel sights, sounds and smells, one always finds the urge to search earnestly for the toilette.
And when even one person needs to go, all other plans are put on hold.
The relief of finding the toilet was quickly delayed when I had to wait for three other people to use it. And I had to wait for the 45 second self-clean cycle between each use.
Eventually when it was my turn, I was tempted to just use it after the guy before me, but I let it do its thing and self-clean, watching the countdown timer like it was New Year’s Eve.
I had just finished my business when an automated French voice announced something indecipherable to me. Lights dimmed. Things clicked beneath the thing walls and I was trapped.
The only thing I could do was accept my fate of witnessing and experiencing this bathroom’s self-clean cycle.
I stared at the toilet lifting the seat slightly to flush down the contents. I screamed and jumped up onto a slight platform as soapy water flooded the floors. All the while, loud air blasted like 25 hair dryers turned on all at once.
In the midst of all that chaos, I wish I had thought to pull up my clothes because on cue the door opened wide ready to receive its next customer.
I discreetly, yet frantically, let them know that someone else was in the stall and pushed the only button I could, but the little bugger wouldn’t close. I had to finish up my stuff with the door wide open, but thankfully the next ‘victims’ gave me space.
Don’t recommend trying the city toilets in France. Some free advice from Clara, with an high emotional high cost from me-find a public library and use their facilities instead.
Island</h2>
After that whole episode, I was ready to move on with our day. I had a craving to go on a boat and swim since that is all we see people doing day after day on the Mediterranean coast.
Clara happened to suggested a few things to do in Marseille and one of them was to visit the Îles du Frioul.
So we went. Cost only 17€ round trip for a 20 minute boat ride that offers killer views.
We ate food right away since we are always hungry. Then we hiked, privately skinny-dipped, hiked some more and boated back.
For dinner, we ate three courses at a Lebanese restaurant that just happened to be playing Portugal v Spain. Which was better than missing sleep to see USA get crushed by Belgium.
And that concludes our one quick day in Marseille.
Watch your step on the wooden edge will just snap off</figcaption></figure>
Le Panier district</figcaption></figure>
Le Panier district - you can still see her lips</figcaption></figure>
Wish this was open </figcaption></figure>
Cute street. Cute guy. </figcaption></figure>
Boat time </figcaption></figure>
Red, white and blue in that order </figcaption></figure>
First crepe in France consisted of homemade dark chocolate </figcaption></figure>
Dip sight </figcaption></figure>
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Stay curious - I literally asked “where do birds go to die.” Found this bird with wings spread as if in midflight.</figcaption></figure>
Ferry take us back to marseille </figcaption></figure>
Unique bike rack </figcaption></figure>
Can’t resist color like this </figcaption></figure>
Pear-ly whites</figcaption></figure>
Metro - David’s favorite form of city transportation and incredible 60's coloring.</figcaption></figure>
Main course of Lebanese food-eggplant, pepper, onion and chickpea with rice. </figcaption></figure>
Meet Clara. She is wonderful and does great work in Marseille. </figcaption></figure>

Day 15 - Swan Day - Salin-de-Giraud, France to Marseille, France

2026-07-06T14:30:29.348950773-07:00

July 5, 2026 - biked 78 km (49 mi), ferry'd 0.43 km (0.27 mi) - biked 820 km (509 mi) total </iframe>
Packing up after breakfast.</figcaption></figure>
Second ferry of the trip! No horses this time.</figcaption></figure>
Get ready to ride down a gravel road on the side of this canal forever. For some reason, none of the windmills were spinning. </figcaption></figure>
Also barely pictured, the route we were following went through an industrial wasteland that was now off-limits.</figcaption></figure>
Our bikes eat lunch.</figcaption></figure>
Two penguins meet two swans. Swans are too big to feel safe near.</figcaption></figure>
Some steep old streets.</figcaption></figure>
Up to an old walled church!</figcaption></figure>
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There was this weird "airlock" to prevent motorcycles from going on this one dirt road. It also almost prevented us.</figcaption></figure>
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I am loving the street shade. I want this for Sarah's pergola.</figcaption></figure>
New best traffic circle art: live goats.</figcaption></figure>
There was a lot of suburbia outside of Marseille and it was brutal.</figcaption></figure>
Kettle Chips take note.</figcaption></figure>
Final pass over a ridge into Marseille. Hot, cars, slow. Nice shoulder though. A drunk guy at a convenience store told us to go this way because we might burn alive by fire the other way?</figcaption></figure>
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The rocks got huge. This was pretty and reminded me of the Sierras. We also saw a pig right after this moment.</figcaption></figure>
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Right as we rounded the last bend. This picture does not do it justice. Train bridge with Marseille in the distance across a bay.</figcaption></figure>
People were out. There were three miles of cars parked on a windy road to get to this beach.</figcaption></figure>
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Maybe we got soft from too much time in the country but Marseille was a shitshow to bike around and was crazy. Chaos in all directions.</figcaption></figure>
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What a move.</figcaption></figure>
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We got Tunisian food! Highlight was the homemade lemonade.</figcaption></figure>
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We stayed at a friend of a friend's apartment, whose flatmate was away. We continue the tradition of not showing any sleeping arrangements.</figcaption></figure>

Day 14 - "Good Return" - La Grande-Motte, France to Salin-de-Giraud, France

2026-07-05T13:39:26.535952003-07:00

July 4, 2026 - biked 75 km (47 mi), ferry'd 0.15 km (0.09 mi) - biked 742 km (461 mi) total
We aspire to be off route again! The Eurovelo 8 curves north away from the coast around Montpellier, not to return for about 200 km near Cannes. There's a few reasons we want to take the coast road: the other way is hilly, not fully signed and requires a train skip, we want to go to Marseille, a desire to cultivate a spiritual connection to the sea, and flamingoes. We scoured the RideWithGPS heatmap to see which way to take and found a route that was short, but somehow went right over the ocean. That sounded too cool to not do.
It was kind of literally that. A storm surge protection berm that ran for 40 km just inland of the beach, surrounded by salt flats, marshes, and shrubs that all flood in the winter when it rains.
For Sarah, it was the most pretty scenery yet but unfortunately the pictures don’t capture half of it. She loves flamingoes and wish we had a way to actually capture pictures of their beauty.
Halfway on the gravel sand road was a lighthouse, and it ended up being a little shop! Sarah bought some kombucha and it made her very happy. As we were leaving, the attendant told us, "good return". We'll try to live by it. It's easy to get excited about your trip, but really you should get excited about what it means to you once you get back. </iframe>
The beach towns around Montpellier continued to be a 60s fever dream of architecture. </figcaption></figure>
It kind of reminded me of the old parts of Disney World.</figcaption></figure>
The future of architecture is here.</figcaption></figure>
Or here.</figcaption></figure>
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Not lunch, second breakfast. It was all chocolate croissants anyway.</figcaption></figure>
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Do you think this is energy efficient?</figcaption></figure>
Want traffic to slow down? Make them literally swerve into the opposing lane.</figcaption></figure>
Lunch.</figcaption></figure>
Have you ever taken a ferry with horses?????</figcaption></figure>
Also it was a paddle ferry. Vintage.</figcaption></figure>
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Wade's European car. Look at the plate!</figcaption></figure>
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Sand kills.</figcaption></figure>
A beach entirely full of rocks shaped into hearts. </figcaption></figure>
Endless gravel with marshes on either side.</figcaption></figure>
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Surprise! The lighthouse was a little shop!</figcaption></figure>
Yes, this is still the right way. No we did not descend into the ocean. </figcaption></figure>
Old watchtower / rich man house.</figcaption></figure>
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This sign would keep me out of anything. Also saw no evidence of any bulls.</figcaption></figure>
Weird-ass bike rack #1742: log with notches cut into it. </figcaption></figure>
All the apartments in Salin-de-Giraud were very institutional. </figcaption></figure>
What's in the tent? We love building anticipation.</figcaption></figure>

Day 13 - Little Devil Bird Rats - Narbonne, France to La Grande-Motte, France

2026-07-04T14:40:53.642036547-07:00

July 3, 2026 - biked 35 km (22 mi), train'd 97 km (60 mi) - biked 667 km (414 mi) total
After another night of being knocked in the head by my tent from the wind, we packed up, showered, charged our phones while eating two croissants and one chocolate one for around 4€.
To keep on our "schedule" we did another train skip morning. We immediately rushed off to the train station to make our 10:08am train from Narbonne to Montpellier. We arrived at our platform sans elevator at 9:59am. We know how to rush, but hate it.
After just a one hour train to escape the wind, we rode straight to a brunch spot to eat again. I ordered a salmon with pancakes, salad and lime cream cheese. David had spicy chicken burger with the best potato wedges I have ever eaten in recent memory.
Montpellier was nice. Lots more bikes, bike parking, people riding around. Riding in the city with all our bags is tough. We can’t just lock up our bikes without having to lug them around with us. Sometimes we take turns watching the bikes while the other uses the toilette or goes grocery shopping. Being in a bigger city keeps us more vigilant even though I felt safe.
Today was hot so we sat down for a red berry smoothie. This is where I witnessed a horror scene of pigeon rats devouring the leftovers of a previous patron. It started out with just one pecking at the bread and then another and another until more than ten pigeons gorging themselves. They knocked knives and forks off the table as they hacked into bread, salad, mushroom and whatever else was there. I had to look away. I lost my appetite for the rest of my smoothie and developed a disgust/fear of Montpellier pigeons. And possibly pigeons everywhere. Little devil bird rats.
Our last thing we did was check out this photograph exhibit where they showcased early photographs. Photography was invented in France and they had some actual daguerreotypes from the mid 1800s. One was even one of the first photos ever taken!
After the city, we had a short 22 km of biking and a grocery store run so we headed south east out of the city to make it to our campsite with ease. </iframe> </iframe>
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Gabs loves the fast ride.</figcaption></figure>
We didn’t notice the hooks at first so we had to scramble to adjust when other bikers entered.</figcaption></figure>
David has orange juice every single day.</figcaption></figure>
Potatoes are the star. Also how has burger branding not taken off everywhere.</figcaption></figure>
David loves his trains.</figcaption></figure>
Overflow canal with graffiti. </figcaption></figure>
We’ve seen bike paths in almost every color now.</figcaption></figure>
Plane tree… thanks Napoleon for planting these. </figcaption></figure>
Place de la Comédie.</figcaption></figure>
Hannah wanted to know about the toilets.</figcaption></figure>
Pretty high tech toilet.</figcaption></figure>
Revive us smoothie! </figcaption></figure>
The start of the hellions arriving.</figcaption></figure>
Bikes and cameras have always had a special relationship.</figcaption></figure>
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L’Arbre Blanc</figcaption></figure>
Apartment building from the ‘60’s? </figcaption></figure>
Low key gnocchi</figcaption></figure>
Most delicious gnocchi and harissa. See as b</figcaption></figure>
Grapes. In 1844.</figcaption></figure>
Lively streetcar street.</figcaption></figure>
So many beautiful buildings around plazas.</figcaption></figure>

Day 12 - A great city we'd never heard of - Narbonne, France

2026-07-04T12:44:13.285581034-07:00

July 2, 2026 - biked 13 km (8.3 mi) - biked 632 km (392 mi) total
Because the wind was so brutal yesterday, we took a surprise rest day. We'd previously asked Claude where we should spend a rest day in France, and it unexpectedly suggested Narbonne. So here we are living up its dreams. It is nice to explore a town that isn’t as well known.
We also loved our two star campsite. It was nice to stay again. We got to order chocolate croissants and baguettes in the evening to be ready in the morning.
France, similar to Spain, has 5 star campgrounds equipped with pool, water slides, restaurants, supermarkets, mini golf courses, tennis courts, cosy bungalows with everything you would find in a hotel, bike rentals, beach access, etc., all of which is too much for two bikers and a penguin.
We saw the most beautiful cathedral I’ve ever seen. We also saw these old Roman ruins underground. It served as a warehouse/market for grains. We had a great time walking around. It was nice to be tourists somewhere less touristy, but that still wanted people to visit.
Rob, our friend in Portland, told us to catch a Spain game. Even though I tried to make it happen, the schedules never lined up while we were in Spain. But this evening, we did see Spain play against Austria in a bar full of French people with only one other person watching the game. I missed all three goals scored and had the half the screen blocked by a group of guys slowly getting drunk. I guess he meant to watch Spain play in Spain. </iframe>
New sunglasses.</figcaption></figure>
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A market that David bought two new pairs of shorts! Expect some airtime soon. </figcaption></figure>
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Cool drainage spout monsters on the cathedral.</figcaption></figure>
Ornate organ. </figcaption></figure>
When you're the priest, this is your view. Might keep you a priest.</figcaption></figure>
For our loved ones that have passed.</figcaption></figure>
Album cover.</figcaption></figure>
Roman underground storehouse for grain and goods.</figcaption></figure>
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We climbed up? a "dungeon"? This word must not mean what I think it means.</figcaption></figure>
View of the cathedral from the dungeon.</figcaption></figure>
Best gelato thus far. Strawberry, chocolate sorbet, and something something banana. GPS loved it and continues to be a messy eater.</figcaption></figure>
It was so windy our tent blew away but some nice strangers tamped it down using our panniers. We need to carry a hammer for the stakes.</figcaption></figure>
Biking back into town to see the world cup.</figcaption></figure>
Cathedral money shot.</figcaption></figure>

Day 11 - Saint Cyprien, France to Narbonne, France

2026-07-03T13:37:12.888980110-07:00

July 1, 2026 - biked 87 km (54 mi) - biked 618 km (384 mi) total
If day 8 was all hills then today is all wind. Open your mouth and just focus on exhale because the 45+ mile winds will force air and expand your lungs. If that seems invasive, it’s because it is. Today was beautiful but entirely miserable. We biked so much but also required twice the effort.
We left our little 200 sq ft apartment at 11:15am and arrived at our campsite at 8:15pm with only a few stops for food, water, bathroom, and surprise grave yard.
How to describe the wind.
I almost fell several times. David ran into the curb by the wind. I literally was pushed backwards by the wind while standing. We had to walk up one overpass and pedal hard to even get down the other side.
Biking over rocks with the wind was the worst because you swerve one way to avoid the rocks but a gust of wind could magnify that swerve and you go off the path.
It was brutal.
It took every ounce of mental and physical strength to forge on. In the morning, the ride was so assaulting and my mental space was not great. I went over the interview in my mind, that I had initially thought I nailed, wishing I had answered some questions differently. I thought for sure I wasn’t going to get the job and I knew exactly why. I tried some meditation and non-attachment style thinking. I tried thinking positive thoughts about me getting the job until at some point the wind pummeling my mind numb.
C'est la vie.
…all you can hear is the wind mile after self-defeating mile. So much effort to go so little. I’d take the heat and hills over the wind. The wind is erratic. Like we hear people say, “Ok, sometime turn off the wind machine!”
However, it can be cleansing in a way. Nothing securely strapped or necessary will be stripped away violently.
About mile 30, a text came through from the assistant principal. I borrowed some wifi from this one nice lady but couldn’t get a hold of her. I anxiously checked my email and texts. Until I stopped mid-road next to a beautiful canal, and read that I got the job! I screamed, I jumped, I kissed, I cried. When you’re biking and exposed to all the elements all your emotions are right beneath the surface. You have very little energy to filter or keep your mask up.
I kept fist pumping the air after I started biking using this adrenaline to keep going.
The wind kept whooshing loudly in my ears for the next 24 km we had to bike. It lulled me and all I wanted to was to be off this bike and at the campsite. </iframe> </iframe>
This is the moment we knew we should have planned to bike this route the other direction.</figcaption></figure>
You can’t tell it how windy it is, but trust it’s base 20 mph and gusts…aka punches of 45 mph wind. </figcaption></figure>
Quaint graveyard we stumbled upon during our constant hunt for water fountains and public bathrooms.</figcaption></figure>
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The water fountains are not as frequent as in Spain, but the ones in some French parks require you to spin the top. Fun.</figcaption></figure>
My face after reading an email that I got the job!</figcaption></figure>
Claim your dreams! </figcaption></figure>
Still more wind. My helmet came in handy.</figcaption></figure>
Ruins on the spit. David is a big ruin guy. Apparently I just kept biking on. </figcaption></figure>
More wind not pictured. </figcaption></figure>
You could live in a boat on a canal outside of Narbonne.</figcaption></figure>
Another setback: my front rack broke. The bolt just wiggled its way free. Thankfully David found both the bolt and the spacer in the middle of the street.</figcaption></figure>
Can you see David? </figcaption></figure>
We finally made it. And first time ever we have something to sit on. </figcaption></figure>
Our lovely two star campsite. Dirt and a chair! </figcaption></figure>
9:45pm and just eating. Both of the cans are David’s. </figcaption></figure>
Not pictured, I apparently ate 20€ of sushi</figcaption></figure>
My celebratory wine for new job!</figcaption></figure>
Proof. And the wind never left us all night long. </figcaption></figure>

Day 10 - Capmany, Spain to Sant-Cyprien Plage, France

2026-07-03T01:26:20.226573659-07:00

June 30, 2026 - biked 68 km (42 mi) - biked 531 km (330 mi) total
We left our cute little "hostel" and began our final day in Spain with a climb. We had met a couple touring yesterday who were doing the PX loop trail around the Pyrenees, which the Eurovelo 8 follows the same path over the mountains to France. They were coming the opposite direction, and said the dirt road to the border on the Spanish side was incredibly difficult. It was very rough and rocky and said going up it would have required mountain bikes. So we decided to skip that section and instead take the local highway, which is paved and less elevation, but more cars. Hopefully not too many cars as there's a parallel expressway that probably most through traffic would take.
But even before we got to that skip, we continued on the EV8 on a dirt road into the hills towards La Jonquera and that already was really rough. Baby head rocks, sand, brush. We had to walk our bikes up one section. Then we bombed down into the town to meet the local highway and got our first flat! There is some sort of thorny plant I rode over and found three punctures in my tube, and probably five more thorns in my tires. Sarah did a check of her tires too and found some but none had broken through. Good thing we had Sarah’s tweezers and an extra hour.
We were in a rush to get to France so we didn't eat breakfast, so we rolled down the rest of the hill into the suburban outskirts of town to a grocery to get a snack. But this grocery ended up being more of a huge liquor store. Sarah went in and got some wrapped sandwiches, and I discovered my tire went flat again. So we drank pasteurized orange juice from a box and I found one more hole in my tube. Good thing I had another patch kit and an extra hour.
The climb into France was gentle and not too bad, but pretty hot and exposed. The border is actually a funny shape. There's a diagonal line through the highway right after a now-disused checkpoint, and then it runs along the road for a kilometer in this border town. The parking on one side of the street you have to go to a Spanish machine, and on the other side, French. El Portùs / La Perthus is a town that feels like a duty free shop, but I don't really know if there's much border arbitrage to be had anymore.
We then bombed down the highway shoulder for the shortest 15 km of my life and it was great, then joined the route back towards the coast. France really kicked up the infrastructure on the Eurovelo. All the paths through the rolling hills were concrete paved and had consistent signage and labeled arrows on the ground. It was easy. France had way different vibes immediately: more suburban, more infrastructure, more people, more agriculture. France definitely feels like a richer country, but there are some things we immediately missed about Spain, like water being a human right and fountains in every park. More about these differences in later posts.
Once we made it to the coast, we started biking north looking for camping again. The coast here is just as fancy as north of Barcelona, so it was all four and five star "campsites" which were just resorts and many didn't take tents. We cooked dinner in a city park, onion, tomato, pasta, potato, tuna. A delight. Then as the sun was setting I did some scouting for guerrilla campsites. Everything around us was so suburban, though, and no options felt private enough to be appropriate. Bivouac camping is legal in France (sundown to sunup with just a tent) but we didn't want to attract attention. The best I could find was a dirt road that ended in the landscape shed for a golf course. And even though we've gotten buff and can climb a short mountain pass, we love a shower at the end of each day. Sarah ended up finding an apartment for rent online for a night for so cheap, surprise literally across from the park where we cooked dinner. So my extra riding was not for today, and we lugged our panniers up an unlit staircase in an abandoned apartment building to sleep on a pull-out couch. Worth it. </iframe>
Hostel was still cute in the morning.</figcaption></figure>
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We had to push our bikes up this part...</figcaption></figure>
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Getting up.</figcaption></figure>
We saw a lot of cork trees that had been harvested.</figcaption></figure>
Cork bark looks just like corks!</figcaption></figure>
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Getting some good final views of Spain.</figcaption></figure>
Flat number one.</figcaption></figure>
Thorns. In. Tires.</figcaption></figure>
This is not a grocery store.</figcaption></figure>
Mediocre sandwich. Great lady.</figcaption></figure>
Flat number one, second act.</figcaption></figure>
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France ahead.</figcaption></figure>
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Disused checkpoint.</figcaption></figure>
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The border runs along this dotted line.</figcaption></figure>
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14 km of downhill!</figcaption></figure>
Great French route signs.</figcaption></figure>
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Our first picnic table we saw on this entire trip.</figcaption></figure>
The route teased us with fancy campgrounds with water slides.</figcaption></figure>
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Our first view of French sea.</figcaption></figure>
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Park cooking.</figcaption></figure>
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This is the only picture of the apartment we have. But it has a cool name.</figcaption></figure>

Day 9 - Sant Pere Pescador, Spain to Capmany, Spain

2026-06-30T13:46:12.029067259-07:00

June 29, 2026 - biked 40 km (25 mi) - biked 464 km (288 mi) total
I had an interview at 6pm, so we needed to book a place with reliable internet. Also I’m still sore from the climbs a few days ago, so today was kind of like a rest day. I sometimes lie to myself and that’s ok.
David booked this cute hostel in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains that came with a bottle of red wine.
Our bikes got their first shower today! They are so filthy from traversing these Spanish dirt and rock roads, so David hosed them off and even cleaned and greased Sarah’s chain while I was interviewing. Sigh.
It’s our last night in Spain and we have a few thoughts:

We liked 1 out of 3 sangrias we tried. </li>

Other wine and alcohol is actually way cheaper than the states. </li>

People are generally very nice to bikes, but we’ve witnessed some pretty upset drivers. </li>

Everyone wants to speak in English than practice our Spanish. </li>

Our Spanish has improved. </li> </ul>
We will miss Spain. But tomorrow we cross the border to France! </iframe>
My fav! </figcaption></figure>
To the Pyrenees we go! </figcaption></figure>
Another church.</figcaption></figure>
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Catalan separatist flag. Alludes to Cuba and Puerto Rico.</figcaption></figure>
GPS has a seatbelt now.</figcaption></figure>
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Tickle.</figcaption></figure>
Arsene chatted with us for a bit and another one obsessed with David’s bike.</figcaption></figure>
Interview spot with good WiFi and light…stay tuned!</figcaption></figure>
A cozy place with stone.</figcaption></figure>

Day 8 - WE LOST GPS - Platja d'Aro, Spain to Sant Sere Pescador, Spain

2026-06-29T14:55:15.317748484-07:00

June 28, 2026 - biked 83 km (51 mi) - biked 424 km (263 mi) total
We had a delightful day with a good combo of beachside paths, dirt roads, and slight hills. We were pooped and ready to get to camp when we made it to one final lookout over the Golf de Roses and our campsite on the shore and France just over the hills when we looked down and...
GPS WAS GONE. Our penguin mascot fell out from peeking out of the top my front pannier somewhere along the bumpy dirt roads of the day. This made me very sad that we didn't notice. We had a big sulk thinking of what this means spiritually for our trip. I gave a few of my bags to Sarah and sprinted back on our path to try to find the stuffed penguin. I looked until he got to the dirt road section, then stashed the rest of my bags for speed. GPS is not bouncy and full of beans, so wherever he fell, he'd plop right in the middle of the road, so i'd look for a penguin each straightaway, and then race to the next turn. 10 km back, there he was, sitting next to a corn field being flooded.
I zipped him into my frame bag completely for safe keeping and went to get my stuff and catch up to Sarah at camp.
We decided this loss meant we were going too fast, and not spending enough time examining our surroundings. And on the other hand, that we were having a trip so good we loved taking in the surroundings and conversation. Both can be true. We're going to try to both slow it down and keep enjoying everything the next few days. </iframe>
We are becoming connoisseurs of traffic circle art. </figcaption></figure>
Salmon bagel yes.</figcaption></figure>
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The second most famous work of Gustave Eiffel!</figcaption></figure>
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Lunch under a cork tree.</figcaption></figure>
We found this old church with murals from the 1400s. You put euros in the door.</figcaption></figure>
And the lights come on!</figcaption></figure>
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Want a protected cycle path. Bam. Put in trees. Right in the asphalt. </figcaption></figure>
Snails are trending on this part of the route.</figcaption></figure>
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We are becoming connoisseurs of traffic circle art. </figcaption></figure>
Headless torch man for '92 Olympics.</figcaption></figure>
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He lied here.</figcaption></figure>
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End of day swim.</figcaption></figure>
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We are so happy to see camp in the distance and France is just over those hills. Shortly, we will be very sad.</figcaption></figure>
Very sad we lost our mascot.</figcaption></figure>
GPS made it back to camp. </figcaption></figure>

Day 7 - Blanes, Spain to Platja d’Aro, Spain

2026-06-29T13:43:58.150319497-07:00

June 27, 2026 - biked 49 km (30 mi) - biked 341 km (212 mi) total
We biked up. We biked down. It was worth the incredible views. But my oh my, my legs will be sore for days. </iframe>
Hills up to 12+ grade</figcaption></figure>
Gorgeous </figcaption></figure>
Nonstop views at the top of the hill </figcaption></figure>
Can’t get enough </figcaption></figure>
Gabs got out of the bag for this scene…dressed a bit too warm but so were we </figcaption></figure>
Found this cool church at the bottom of the hills</figcaption></figure>
Immediately had to jump in the sea</figcaption></figure>
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Celebrate with wine</figcaption></figure>
Best name ever </figcaption></figure>
6 churros for €6</figcaption></figure>
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Celebrate with beer</figcaption></figure>

Day 6 - Barcelona, Spain to Blanes, Spain

2026-06-29T11:32:18.355378459-07:00

June 26, 2026 - biked 78 km (48 mi) - biked 292 km (181 mi) total
We could’ve stayed longer in Barcelona, but with so much more to explore in Spain we wanted get back on the road.
It was tough, slow going. The route weaved between biking along the sea, to back under the railroad tracks, to back along the road. Navigation is Sarah's least favorite part of each day. There are other things to dislike, like unnecessary loud vehicles or teenagers talking from 3am to 9pm right by your tent, but that nothing compared to the navigation.
You make one wrong turn and you just wasted time and energy going up a hill. Then you have to go back to where you started, further depleted. To be vigilant annd avoid a wrong turn, you must stop frequently sometimes to double check you’re still on the route, hopefully in a shady spot where you can see your phone. Sarah’s poor navigation can be blamed on her mother and years of dependency on Google Maps.
Camping</h2>
Camping in Spain is weird. It is all resort camping equipped with water slides for the children, security guards, bracelets to show you’re a member, motor homes and camping trailers for permanent residents. Needless to say, it’s a lot more than we ever want or need. But unfortunately we have to pay the cost for all these extra amenities or keep searching for a different spot.
Today was one of those days. On the very first night of camping in Spain it actually only cost €17, which set our expectations. The second night was €21. The third night was €39 because of the John the Baptist Nativity holiday. It put a sour taste in our mouth to pay so much for a worse campsite the night prior so we determined to not let that happen again.
We cycled up to one resort type camp, pretty much the only ones around and they said it would cost €45. Even more? We literally have one tent and two bikes. We went to another one and they didn’t even take people like us with tents, only RV’s. We cycled further up the road and asked another site. They charged €50. We realized we might be in the Big Sur/Carmel of Spain. We had to cycle another 10 km to get a campsite for €37. We saved a few pennies but we also biked the most miles yet! Win win? </iframe>
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GPS continued to lead the way today.</figcaption></figure>
It was so hot I lost Sarah.</figcaption></figure>
White Mulberry. Tasty mid-day snack.</figcaption></figure>
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Somehow the route told us to go down this embankment and then turn directly into the sea.</figcaption></figure>
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Hella secret beaches that everyone knows of.</figcaption></figure>
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Feeling good starting the day. </figcaption></figure>
Barcelona had all these cool 70s modular stoplights.</figcaption></figure>
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Something burns in the distance. We avoided the smoke, though. Turned out to be a forest fire, maybe set on purpose?</figcaption></figure>
Decommissioned coal plant. The "windows" used to have the boilers in them directly mounted to the smoke stacks. Huge in the Barcelona skyline.</figcaption></figure>
We are not sure what the other 8% is.</figcaption></figure>
The oldest train tunnel in Spain. </figcaption></figure>
Lots of beach and train. Also the first railway in Spain.</figcaption></figure>
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This guy.</figcaption></figure>
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We did not even stop here, but this set the tone. </figcaption></figure>
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One camp site we were aiming for turned out to be just a functional ferris wheel.</figcaption></figure>
This place refused us. 😛</figcaption></figure>
Beach outside our site we finally landed at.</figcaption></figure>
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Day 4 & 5 - FFWD - Benicarló, Spain to Barcelona, Spain

2026-06-27T13:14:21.303063917-07:00

June 24-25, 2026 - biked 25 km (15 mi), train'd 220 km (137 mi) - biked 214 km (133 mi) total
We only have two months off, so we don't actually have enough time to ride the full EuroVelo 8. So on this trip we are taking some judicious skip days via train, and today is one of those days! We shaved off three days of biking by taking a 3 hour regional rail train straight to Barcelona. It's so nice to take a train where we can wheel our bikes and bags on and not need to do any planning.
While cramming ourselves into an elevator, with barely any room left, this one guy threw himself into the middle of the bikes with his big roller bag. He was so excited to tell us that he saw us biking in Ben Carlo which was days ago. Apparently he was driving and let us pass. He remembered David very well but he couldn’t see me with all my gear.
Barcelona is so great! Such a wonderful biking city! They have biking lanes, as opposed to Madrid. We spent only 1.5 days walking around, biking around and eating.
David’s favorite part of Barcelona were the streets. All of the new part of the city was a grid with wide tree lined streets and tall buildings. The shade of the buildings and trees made it cool and inviting. Then every intersection had set-back beveled corners, so the buildings had a focus for their facades, and the space opened up, but the corners were filled with plaza seating or parking, so the space was cozy, not a traffic zoo. Also cycle tracks everywhere.
Sarah wasn’t impressed with the sangria, but boy, were they strong. She enjoyed our two and a half hour long tour. We learned about the history of Barcelona, a little of the current politics, and Gaudi. The modernist design of the buildings was definitely striking and memorable, if not a little unsettling.
We went on a funicular to get to a city view where the 1992 Olympics high dive and water polo took place. See picture below. We happened to catch a high school water polo game. Both of us are not huge sports watchers, but we stayed fascinated by the game. Quite horrifying, one guy got scratched and blood gushing from his eye. Quite violent, but in all other aspects, lower risks for injury. The next day, while doing laundry in our hostel, we saw one of the polo teams emerge from their rooms! How wild that we stayed at the same hostel in such a massive city.
It was a very touristed city, and that made it feel a little weird. You know things are tough when there are signs everywhere on light posts in English that say "Fines of €3.000 for anti-social behavior." But even the parts that were "touristed" were not "touristy". The beach towns were more touristy. One of my other favorite parts was walking up to a viewpoint on a hill and walking through apartment plazas and side streets and seeing random bars in residential area packed, or smelling people's dinners wafting out of windows. There are some non-touristed parts. I dream that every city can have a part as beautiful and compelling and maybe they don't need to all come to Barcelona.
**order of photos is scattered but we are trying to fix it. </iframe> </iframe> </iframe> </iframe>
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A tad disappointing to not be biking but can’t do it all</figcaption></figure>
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Luxury </figcaption></figure>
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Syrian food</figcaption></figure>
Beloved bike lanes</figcaption></figure>
Sagrada familia </figcaption></figure>
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Olympic view with water polo</figcaption></figure>
Tapas</figcaption></figure>
No caption necessary </figcaption></figure>
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So much food</figcaption></figure>
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More walking tour </figcaption></figure>
That’s a mouthful</figcaption></figure>
Square where forty orphans died and now it’s a school playground </figcaption></figure>
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Walking tour</figcaption></figure>
Women owned house back early 1900’s where husband left her so she made this</figcaption></figure>
Another modernist house</figcaption></figure>
Gaudi house </figcaption></figure>
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Substantial </figcaption></figure>
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OJ and Sangria </figcaption></figure>
High dive ‘92 Olympics</figcaption></figure>
Gaze at the trains </figcaption></figure>
A random guy wanted to borrow David’s bike to do a photo shoot</figcaption></figure>
Not a huge fan of this build </figcaption></figure>

Day 3 - Benicàssim, Spain to Benicarlò, Spain

2026-06-25T14:45:22.692476803-07:00

June 23, 2026 - biked 74 km (46 mi) - biked 189 km (118 mi) total
Who is Beni? Why does he have two towns named after him?
Toughest day yet with an unexpected huge gravel climb, intense sun. If that wasn’t enough, David made sure I did several small hikes to see ruins and walks to the beach throughout the day. But we did stuff our faces with chicken, salmon sandwiches, fries and soda.
This day happened to be a holiday, St. John the Baptist nativity day, where it is celebrated with a bonfire and fireworks at midnight. </iframe>
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A lot of the day was on an old rail grade with amazing cool tunnels and cutouts.</figcaption></figure>
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This tunnel felt like A/C. It was amazing. </figcaption></figure>
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Emergency snack. </figcaption></figure>
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Hot. </figcaption></figure>
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Castle town here we come!</figcaption></figure>
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Campsite. No mosquitos. </figcaption></figure>
Beach sunset walk. The festival fireworks were at midnight and we could not keep our eyes open to see them. </figcaption></figure>
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Dinner time! </figcaption></figure>

Day 2 - Cornito, Spain to Benicàssim, Spain

2026-06-24T13:35:08.832818866-07:00

June 22, 2026 - biked 61 km (38 mi) - biked 116 km (72 mi) total
We stopped just following bike paths in the beach towns and finally made it to the EuroVelo route! Outside of the towns there are these nice orange-pole-d signs for every turn. In towns, you're on your own though.
We didn’t have any camp stove fuel to make breakfast, so we stopped at this local bar where everyone was almost twice our age. The bartender didn't have a menu, but showed us to the food warmer and we had an incredible garlic scape frittata and a fried fish.
We needed fuel so we went to this huge outdoor sporting store, Decathlon, that’s a combination of REI, Foot Locker, and Walmart. And guess what?!? They also had the same knives that the Spanish train confiscated. So we bought another pair.
At this Florida campsite, David whipped up this amazing dinner with our remaining groceries. It consisted of gnocchi and red sauce mixed in with finely chopped onions (thanks to our knife!) and canned tuna.
Afterwards we dipped in the Mediterranean Sea for the first time. Warm like a hug and refreshing like a sangria. Other than the stress of routing through malls and big box stores to get the stove fuel, it was a pretty chill day. </iframe>
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All the towns let you know you are there with big letters. </figcaption></figure>
We were so famished we did not take a picture of our late breakfast. But it was fish and then a garlic scape omelette from this bar and it was amazing.</figcaption></figure>
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Beach town loves a cycle path.</figcaption></figure>
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This grocery store had a machine to squeeze orange juice!</figcaption></figure>
Otters!</figcaption></figure>
On the side of this highway was the history of the bicycle.</figcaption></figure>
Sometimes the bike path was not glamorous. </figcaption></figure>
Knives and fuel place. It's like a cross between REI, Foot Locker, and Wal-Mart.</figcaption></figure>
This city has red bike lanes. Most do.</figcaption></figure>
OCEAN GOING BOUNCY CASTLE WATER PARK</figcaption></figure>
The camp for this day. </figcaption></figure>
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The knife we rebought. Stock photo.</figcaption></figure>
We saw our first EuroVelo 8 sign!</figcaption></figure>
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Day 1 - Valencia, Spain to Corinto, Spain

2026-06-23T00:45:44.199201584-07:00

June 21, 2026 - biked 53 km (33 mi), train'd 398 km (247 mi) - biked 55 km (34 mi) total
Day 1 unexpectedly started a day early! Our housing in Valencia canceled so we scrambled to find another place and it just so happened to be 38 km (23 mi or 2 hour bike ride) outside of Valencia.
We started biking after the train from Madrid arrived at 12:30pm. The Spanish trains are very strict! They confiscated our French made knives because they were dos centímetros too long.
Even though it wasn’t the official EuroVelo, it looked like there was a bike path right on the beach up the whole way. It ended up being 27 miles of winding beach boardwalks and sandy nature trails. Dragging our bikes through sand. Biking over big rocks. Small rocks. Weird bumpy pavers. We arrived at our campsite at around 8pm with no fuel to make dinner. So we snacked on cheese/crackers and canned tuna. It was delicious. This cheese Mescla is a must have.
David was a great navigator, even if he lead us on treacherous roads. One of the cursed roads led us to a bird sanctuary and we saw this cool black and white bird.
Even though we had to hustle and start biking sooner than expected, we found ourselves ready. We’ve been preparing for this trip for over 6 months and it felt good to meet the road that will bring us to many more places. </iframe> </iframe>
We had to reassemble our bikes after the train </figcaption></figure>
First view of the Mediterranean!</figcaption></figure>
Treacherous road not pictured </figcaption></figure>
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Related to the penguin? ;) </figcaption></figure>
Isn’t she beautiful? </figcaption></figure>
Graffiti that captured my mood</figcaption></figure>
Our bikes lived in our room in Madrid.</figcaption></figure>
And it sucked to carry them down the stairs.</figcaption></figure>
Riding to the train station. </figcaption></figure>
No one is driving at Sunday, 9am in Madrid.</figcaption></figure>
We made it with 7 minutes to spare. No pictures of the frantic bike disassembly and bagging and knife confiscation.</figcaption></figure>
Mesarunner tucked in the quiet car.</figcaption></figure>
David is frazzled. </figcaption></figure>
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Padrón </figcaption></figure>
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Valencia had way more bike paths. And way more bikes. </figcaption></figure>
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Paella valenciana</figcaption></figure>
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Sarah sees the cool bird through a bird blind in the nature reserve. </figcaption></figure>
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Not sure what this former industry was but it looked cool. </figcaption></figure>
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Night 1 campsite.</figcaption></figure>
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Sarah touches the Mediterranean for the first time.</figcaption></figure>
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Day Negative 1 & 0 - Walking Madrid - Madrid, Spain

2026-06-22T13:15:02.304988625-07:00

June 19-20, 2026 - biked 0 km (0 mi) - biked 2 km (1.2 mi) total
We walked. That we did for two days. That's what one does when we'd have to carry our bikes up and down five flights of stairs and there's nowhere to lock them up when we get wherever we are going. So our bikes rested while Sarah's new shoes were put to the test.
We did a walking tour, visited some markets, some free art museums, had lunch wine, tried to watch world cup games, and saw a Flamenco show.
It's a really great city to walk. We learned that whenever we are tired, we are actually hungry. That Irish pubs are too crowded with people watching soccer to actually watch soccer. And that the metro and wine should be this cheap every where.
We enjoyed the Flamenco dance the most. We enjoyed it in a very intimate space with about 20 other people. Three dancers, one singer and one guitar player expressed their heart and culture with such talent. They put so much effort. It was so visible in the sweat and marks on the stage.
As we watched the sunset, there was a little thunderstorm.
Walking tour started in Plaza Mayor.</figcaption></figure>
Walking tour stopped by Mercado de San Miguel, but said it was overhyped. It's might not have been though?</figcaption></figure>
From the fruit stand. Sarah loves watermelon. The fruit was too good.</figcaption></figure>
Nuns sell cookies by the kilo remotely through this door.</figcaption></figure>
CentroCentro is a community center and free art gallery run by the city in a beautiful old post office.</figcaption></figure>
Imagine mailing things surrounded by this beauty.</figcaption></figure>
The thought of returning from two month long trip.</figcaption></figure>
Took a longer metro ride.</figcaption></figure>
Ghost station! Chamberí. Preserved as it was when it was built in 1919.</figcaption></figure>
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Flamenco sangría</figcaption></figure>
Flamenco. This guy sweat through an entire three piece suit. He was awesome.</figcaption></figure>
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Our first spanish wine in Spain.</figcaption></figure>
David holding the tiniest cup of espresso.</figcaption></figure>
Gremlins below a statue of Lucifer. (Not pictured to maintain decorum.)</figcaption></figure>
I missed the lightning, but a baby thunderstorm seen from the palace.</figcaption></figure>

Day Negative 2 - Biking then Not Biking around Madrid - Madrid, Spain

2026-06-20T04:46:04.306550898-07:00

June 18, 2026 - biked 2 km (1.2 mi) - biked 2 km (1.2 mi) total
After assembling our bikes we took the metro to escape the airport then rode the 20 minutes from the airport metro line stop to our hostel. First biking impressions in Madrid were... mixed. Not a big cycling town. We saw maybe five other bicycles the whole way. Mostly food delivery on e-bikes, and then some folks on pay-per-ride "city bikes". The small side streets are lovely but the major streets just have some sharrows in the right lane and you go with traffic. Cars are slow and quite nice but you are surrounded and it's way more stressful than zagging on the side streets, but they don't always go through.
Madrid also has so little bike parking. There were almost no staples or racks anywhere. You might have to walk a kilometer to find staple racks. There are also very few street signs sized to lock to. Also the only place to store our bikes overnight safely was either in our hostel room on the 5th floor or at a parking garage 2 km away where you pay per day. So we decided to keep the bikes in our room for our three days here and just walk or take the metro to places. Biking will begin on Sunday then.
After so much traveling and a nap, we finally got some dinner and took a quick walk around! And then went right back to bed. </iframe>
Front and back cars on the subway train have bike spots. But not every line allows them. </figcaption></figure>
We ride for the first time!</figcaption></figure>
Great little streets.</figcaption></figure>
Sarah was so tired and ready to sleep immediately. </figcaption></figure>
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View from hostel room</figcaption></figure>
Finally got some dinner the first night</figcaption></figure>
Bikes safe and sleepy in the hostel room</figcaption></figure>

Departure and Arrival

2026-06-20T04:40:41.993191840-07:00

We stayed up till 1:40am playing real life Tetris in order to pack our bikes in unnecessarily small boxes we got by mistake. Then we basically rethought every item we packed and culled some and added some.
Here are our updated stats:
David’s stuff—38.5lb
Sarah’s stuff—46.1lb
Departure Day</h1>
After Greg dropped us off at the airport with such rockstar energy, we struggled to the line with bike boxes in tow, juggling our panniers that serve best as bike luggage and not airline carry ons.
Alexi, a little girl behind us said hi and shook our hands. She immediately said David handsome and me-beautiful, and that we made a lovely couple. She asked me what my favorite number and color. And I asked her if she thought 6-7 was still cool. She did. She said every time the numbers 6-7 were mentioned in class, they went wild, but not everyone. Axolotles, lububi, something about toilet, and cute kawakas followed as we scooted and snaked our away closer.
As invasively friendly as Alexi was, she did distract us from the mind-seizing anticipation of the weight scale and the gamble of the kindness of the ticket agent.
The agent was very kind. She didn’t charge us $75 each for the checked bikes and she simply said to David, “Your bike must be heavier” when his bike turned up 2lb over the airline luggage limit.
We said goodbye to Alexi who was on her way to see her dad in Oklahoma. Her grandmother wishes Alexi was shy. I agree.
After a layover in Atlanta and another puzzle of configuring our limbs in a way to try and sleep, we arrived in the Madrid airport in the middle of our night and very sleep deprived.
I worried about the state of my bike because in Atlanta, I saw the bottom of my bike box breaking open as it came off the plane.
Arrival</h1>
When we started to unpack our bikes in a space off the side of the baggage claim, I literally freaked out and involved more people than necessary when I couldn’t my bag that included the front wheel axle sewer, bike tools and bolt. Without these my bike is useless.
David reassured me that all those metal pieces could be easily replaced. I had done everything I could to see if it was still on the plane and gave my information to the airlines in case a small bag with tools was found.
As David continued to assemble his bike, all I could do was start packing up the stuff I could. To find anything, all you need to do is pick up something you thought you already picked up before to find out that you hadn’t. And that’s exactly what happened! I found it!
Lesson to myself: don’t jump to the worst of every situation and get more sleep!
We were now able to ride off into the heat of Madrid to find our hostel.
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Going Away Party

2026-06-17T12:00:34.459686084-07:00

Thank you for coming to our going away party. The sun showed up in full heat and yet you still ventured out to send us off. We felt the love and warm wishes of adventure and safety.
For those of you who couldn’t make it or are far away, let's bring the party to you.
We had a bike and gear weight guess with closest guess to be awarded either a free bike tune up or cake! (When we get back.)
David's gear - 40.4 lb
David's Mesarunner bike - 38.4 lb
Sarah's gear - 41.4 lb
Sarah's ‘Frankie’ bike - 34.0 lb
Grand totaling to 154.2 lb!
Kelly wins with a guess of 160 lb! We had quite the range of guesses from 50 lb to 297 lb. We appreciated everyone who followed their heart, even if it was way off. We assume your heart is useful in other contexts.
As an aside, I wanted to celebrate my birthday early so david made a decadent lemon blueberry Bundt cake that got devoured onsite, mere hours after leaving the oven.
Thank you for helping us name our penguin mascot. His official name is now Gabriel Penguin Spirit or GPS! Close seconds were picture below. We appreciate, but politely decline, Ellie and Eric’s offers to legally adopt.
Thanks for showing us off! We will take your good penguin spirit with us.
We will post about our final departure moment soon!
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David weighing his bike + gear</figcaption></figure>
All our gear…for now</figcaption></figure>
A gift from a child to protect us on our journey </figcaption></figure>
Birthday cake with big candle</figcaption></figure>
Top runner ups</figcaption></figure>
Meet our mascot</figcaption></figure>
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Our last guest to arrive, my dear kitty </figcaption></figure>

First post!

2026-05-27T04:57:28.788095176+00:00

Hi! We are Sarah and David and we're about to go on a big bike trip. This summer, we are going to bike the Mediterranean from Valencia, Spain to Athens, Greece for Sarah's birthday! We're going to post pictures and updates here for our friends.
We're getting our bikes ready the next few weeks!
Frankie is Sarah's bike</figcaption></figure>
The Mesarunner is David's bike</figcaption></figure>

Penguins Bike

Day 37 - Sarah Navigates - Ravno, Bosnia & Hercegovina to Tuli, Bosnia & Hercegovina

Day 35 - Blaćina, Croatia to Dračevo, Bosnia & Hercegovina

Day 34 - The weaker sex - Korčula, Croatia to Blaćina, Croatia

Day 33 - Remote Island - Split, Croatia to Korčula, Croatia

Day 36 - Bat Exposure Therapy - Dračevo, Bosnia & Hercegovina to Ravno, Bosnia & Hercegovina

Day 32 - No Banana - Split, Croatia

Day 31 - All train stations in Croatia seem abandoned - Prosika, Croatia to Split, Croatia

Day 30 - Zadar, Croatia to Prosika, Croatia

Day 29 - Seven Hour World Cup Ferry - Cres, Croatia to Zadar, Croatia

Day 21 - Birthday Day - Ljubljana, Slovenia

Gear Interlude - Inside The Bikers Tent with James Lipton

Day 28 - Island Style - Pazin, Croatia to Cres, Croatia

Day 27 - Wine before the hills - Triban, Croatia to Pazin, Croatia

Day 26 - Swimming is always worth it - Koper, Slovenia to Triban, Croatia

Day 20-25 - Rest Week - Ljubljana, Slovenia

Pizza Review: Le Bar Les Bois Flottés de Carmargue, Salin-de-Giraud, France

Sauce</h2> Merely there. Light, salty, maybe with truffle? It seemed to lack olive oil, which might have elevated this.</p> 2.5 / 5.0 Unremarkable but not detracting.</p>

Day 19 - I'm more of a cave wine kind of gal - Trieste, Italy to Ljubljana, Slovenia

Day 18 - Buff Arms - Ventimiglia, Italy to Trieste, Italy

Day 17 - Tour de France - Marseille, France to Ventimiglia, Italy

Day 16 - Here is what we say about - Marseille, France

Day 15 - Swan Day - Salin-de-Giraud, France to Marseille, France

Day 14 - "Good Return" - La Grande-Motte, France to Salin-de-Giraud, France

Day 13 - Little Devil Bird Rats - Narbonne, France to La Grande-Motte, France

Day 12 - A great city we'd never heard of - Narbonne, France

Day 11 - Saint Cyprien, France to Narbonne, France

Day 10 - Capmany, Spain to Sant-Cyprien Plage, France

Day 9 - Sant Pere Pescador, Spain to Capmany, Spain

Day 8 - WE LOST GPS - Platja d'Aro, Spain to Sant Sere Pescador, Spain

Day 7 - Blanes, Spain to Platja d’Aro, Spain

Day 6 - Barcelona, Spain to Blanes, Spain

Day 4 & 5 - FFWD - Benicarló, Spain to Barcelona, Spain

Day 3 - Benicàssim, Spain to Benicarlò, Spain

Day 2 - Cornito, Spain to Benicàssim, Spain

Day 1 - Valencia, Spain to Corinto, Spain

Day Negative 1 & 0 - Walking Madrid - Madrid, Spain

Day Negative 2 - Biking then Not Biking around Madrid - Madrid, Spain

Departure and Arrival

Going Away Party

First post!

Sauce</h2>
Merely there. Light, salty, maybe with truffle? It seemed to lack olive oil, which might have elevated this.</p>
2.5 / 5.0 Unremarkable but not detracting.</p>